Cat5 and F-Type Coax tester advice

[sleepysurf]

Need some advice re a Cat5/Coax cable tester.

I'm sitting here dreary-eyed (after working all night), totally frustrated cuz my Squeezeboxes and home network are on the fritz. Some of our household laptops will connect WIRELESSLY to our home network and the Internet, but none of the WIRED connections work. I'm not sure if the fault lies with my Verizon Actiontec router (latest firmware was installed a couple days ago, and seemed fine), or if I inadvertently loosened a connection in the tangled mess at my network hub (see pic), when I re-labeled wires recently.

Even if I call Verizon out to troubleshoot (?? $$ cost since INSIDE wiring), I figure it's a good idea to get a Cat5/Coax cable tester anyways, for future use. I've also had trouble in the past with bad F-type coax cables, so want a tester with that capability also. My Verizon Fios box and phones are working fine, so I don't think I messed up the INCOMING signal at my network hub.

Thanks to Google, I found the Test-Um TP350 tester (see link) which seems to meet my needs... http://www.testumdistributor.com/proddetail.php?prod=TP350

Anybody have any experience/advice about such testers for a neophyte?

 

[Audiophiliac]

The Test-um will work for what you need. They make uber expensive ones that measure skew, speed, resistance, etc....but the cheap ones will tell you A) if the wire is broken. b) if the ends are terminated properly c) how long each run is etc.....itll tell you where your problem is if its in the wiring. Thats for the network wiring. For the coax testing, I think all you get is continuity....maybe it does length and short testing too....good luck.

First rule of troubleshooting is that no matter what you do, the problem is always found on the last thing you try which turns out to be the most obvious.

 

[JasonR]

I'm not familiar with that one, but you'll definitely want a two-piece unit for resolving this kind of problem. Ideal makes the one that I use (and abuse) regularly: http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=689202

Any similar two-part unit will do the trick. You plug the RJ-45 connector into the remote unit, say at the network jack in your kitchen. Then plug the various unknown cables that may be the other end of that kitchen wire into the unit with the button, click the button, and see if you get any pairs connected.

You may also consider a fox & hound for this type of job, though they're generally used for analog (telephone wire) tracing. It's basically a tone generator that you plug onto the line, and 'find' the tone by just touching the speaker tester to various cables and listening for the loudest one... often without even piercing the cable. Works best when there's not that many cables, not much crosstalk, etc. Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Extech-40180-Generator-Amplifier-Circuit/dp/B00023RVNO

For the latter tester which is really meant for analog equipment, you may need to make a little RJ11>RJ45 adapter cable. Also, it would be safest to disconnect all equipment from the network cabling before testing, if possible.

- Jason

 

[JasonR]

BTW - those Linksys routers are absolutely notorious for randomly failing on some or all ports. Test it with a laptop to ensure that the ports are working before proceeding.

- Jason

 

[sleepysurf]

Thanks everybody.

BTW, Jason, the Test-Um model DOES have a remote unit- it just slides out from the main unit. I've tried bypassing the Linksys switch, but still having the same problem. I *think* the problem is a corrupt firmware update on the Actiontek router, and just put in a trouble-ticket with Verizon. I'm hoping they'll just give me a new one. Even if that solves the problem, I'm gonna buy the tester for future use.

 

[sleepysurf]

Jason, you DA MAN!! The culprit WAS the Linksys switch! I had bypassed it by unplugging all the network cables running into it, but had not disconnected it from the router itself. Once I tried that EVERYTHING is working normally again!

What brand replacement switch other than Linksys would you recommend? Dlink, Netgear? I'll get an 8-10 port switch this time, to accommodate future expansion.

 

[nsgarch]

with the Linksys routers,

sometimes (in fact most times in my experience) pushing the little reset button on the back is the fix (for some weird reason I don't understand )

 

[JasonR]

Awesome - glad you figured it out! I've had better luck with the Linksys products that don't have that blue & gray plastic case, like the RV-series routers, 3000/4000 series rack mount switches, etc. I pretty rarely use those little desktop switches, and if I do, I'll have a backup on hand... and test that first before pulling any hair out.

I've installed a couple NetGear FS108P switches recently (8 port with PoE on 4 ports) which seems surprisingly well made for the price. And having power over ethernet is great for VoIP phones in a residence or small business.

- Jason

 

[JonFo]

Alan, good news that you got it fixed.

For switches, I highly recommend the HP 1400 series of gigabit switches, I have both an 8 port and a 24 version of these in my network and they are great.

Biggest win on the 24 port is NO FANS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833316076

 

[sleepysurf]

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I ended up ordering a cheap Netgear switch from Newegg, featuring a $10 rebate. If it dies after a year, I'll just spring for another. I also ordered some HDMI 1.3 cable, and some other wiring I needed. Newegg charges minimal for expedited shipping, and I've had great experience from them before.