What to look for in used SL3's?

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ironsidesrr

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I have an opportunity to purchase a pair of SL3’s and was wondering if anyone can share some advice as to what I might want to look for or listen for that may indicate the condition of the SL3’s. Any known problems I should check for, recommendations, etc.

Thanks.:ROFL:
 
?

Hi Iron,

What experience have you had with ML speakers and high end audio?

More info / background, the better.

Many great people on this forum who may provide insight.

GG
 
My experience

Gordon,
My experience if this helps;

I have listened to ML Vantages for approximately 1 hr at a local Tweeter etc. I was able to compare to the other systems they had in stock Focal etc. and I was blown away by the ML sound compared to others. They also had one of the ML subs on.


Listened to my friends system that contains an ML similar to the Vantage but a little older, I do not remember the name. This was a 5+ hrs of listening with all type of music Jazz, rock, classic, etc. – again loved it.

My budget is approximately $1K for the speakers and I have a Cambridge audio Azure 840a integrated amp to drive them (200w @4 Ohms) I will be adding a sub to the system (DIY 12” sealed sub with servo feedback) the room will be approximately 15’x 30’x8.

I am basically starting off in the “Audi” realm and plan on upgrading as I feel like it/can afford it.

I also have an electrical engineering background and like to woodwork so I feel comfortable making small fixes, if required.
 
Physical things to look for:

Panel integrity. No dimples, bends or distortions on the panels.

Diaphragm tension, is the Mylar nice and even (no wrinkles). Wrinkles are a sign of loss of edge integrity on the panel. New ones might be needed.

Box integrity: any cracks in the woofer box, usually in the rear, as dropping the crate or box they are in can put big stresses on that part.


Audible things to listen for:

Using a sound pressure meter, both speakers should be within in a DB of each other.
Even better, disconnect the binding straps between the rear input posts and listen to just panels, then just woofers and see if you hear any distortions or colorations you’d object to.


Comments

Almost any SL3 is now old enough to probably be candidate for new panels soon. So factor a $550 panel job into your future expenses. You might be able to delay it for a few years, but it’s coming.

But that’s the great thing about ML’s, for reasonable money they can be returned to as-new (or even better than new) condition pretty easily.
And compared to new costs, they are a bargain.

Good luck with the purchase decision.
 
Look up the serial number of the panels with the serial number decoder on this website. That will tell you the exact age of the panels. More important is how they've been looked after so talk to the previous owner. Did he vacuum them regularly? Do NOT touch anything from a smoker's house at any cost!
 
Update

Thanks to everyone for your feedback.
I purchased a pair of Vantages so that I don’t have to deal with the unknown used issues of the SL3's.
I am going to try to power it with a CA 840a. Guess I will find out how the integrated amp can handle it.
My next upgrade is a CDP. I am currently using a very old Sony 5cd changer.

Any recommendations on CDP? $900 is my max limit for the CDP.
:music:
 
Cdp

Well, if you can go just a little bit higher, you can get the Azur 740C or, better yet, the 840C, which has received numerous rave reviews. I should mention that what everyone says about the Azur CD players is true: don't judge them based on a unit that has not been broken in. My dealer warned me about this, and, sure enough, I disliked the player out of the box and was sorely tempted to return it. I gave it some time, however, and the change was the most remarkable audio transformation I have ever witnessed. I wouldn't do without it now. Having the two DAC inputs is a great plus, by the way. I now run all of my digital gear through the Azur. Of course, some product combinations succeed better than others, but I am assuming that the Azur line would work well together. The best bet is to buy a CDP from a dealer that has a solid returns policy.
 
Physical things to look for:

Panel integrity. No dimples, bends or distortions on the panels.

Diaphragm tension, is the Mylar nice and even (no wrinkles). Wrinkles are a sign of loss of edge integrity on the panel. New ones might be needed.

Box integrity: any cracks in the woofer box, usually in the rear, as dropping the crate or box they are in can put big stresses on that part.


Audible things to listen for:

Using a sound pressure meter, both speakers should be within in a DB of each other.
Even better, disconnect the binding straps between the rear input posts and listen to just panels, then just woofers and see if you hear any distortions or colorations you’d object to.


Comments

Almost any SL3 is now old enough to probably be candidate for new panels soon. So factor a $550 panel job into your future expenses. You might be able to delay it for a few years, but it’s coming.

But that’s the great thing about ML’s, for reasonable money they can be returned to as-new (or even better than new) condition pretty easily.
And compared to new costs, they are a bargain.

Good luck with the purchase decision.
I just bought some SL3s this week after successfully posting a wanted ad on audiogon (best $6 I've spent recently) and being a long-time lurker here.

In addition to what JonFo said, find a pair from 2000 (serial no starts with SEL) and also look for non-smoking owners, dust free panels, low use, and original packaging and cones.
Also ensure front and rear stators are aligned with each other: I found one pair that were obviously 'shifted,' making the pair not equally transparent.
I also noticed differences in how 'spotty' the membranes can be. The faintly 'sooty' spots* behind every opening in the stators get darker with age, and I found a fairly 'clear' pair. I would be disappointed not to get another 4-5 years from these panels, but I have started to save up the $550 and look forward to the clear spars.

*What is the cause of this 'soot'?
 
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