What Gauge Wire for ML Ascent i Panels?
- Thread starter randallp
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I'd go with 12 or 14ga, as it should do fine for 30'.
The 12ga Belden from Blue Jeans Cable is the best bang for the buck.
The 12ga Belden from Blue Jeans Cable is the best bang for the buck.
Well, I'm not quite sure that AWG plays the crucial role (any more). I found the thicker cables sounding better running the SS on the panels; on the other hand I find the thin silver much better with the tube amp. It's all synergy and YMMV.
I suspect there are other aspects of cable construction that would have an impact on sonic virtues but considering gauge only I would recommend at least 12 gauge. 14 gauge is the recommended minimum size in the ML speaker manual but since you have a 30' run then I would bump that up to at least 12 gauge and be sure to keep them away from any power cords.
I don't know what your using for amps but my ideal setup includes balanced monoblocks. That way I could place the monoblock amp next to the speaker using the minimum length of speaker cable and a long run of XLR interconnects to place the components in a convenient location somewhere other than between the speakers so they don't interfere the with imaging and soundstaging depth. The best systems I've heard nothing between the speakers and have hauntingly realistic imaging of the vocals with a sense of depth as if the sound is coming from 10 feet behind the speakers.
I know I got a little off track but sometimes cabling can enable or affect other setup options.
I don't know what your using for amps but my ideal setup includes balanced monoblocks. That way I could place the monoblock amp next to the speaker using the minimum length of speaker cable and a long run of XLR interconnects to place the components in a convenient location somewhere other than between the speakers so they don't interfere the with imaging and soundstaging depth. The best systems I've heard nothing between the speakers and have hauntingly realistic imaging of the vocals with a sense of depth as if the sound is coming from 10 feet behind the speakers.
I know I got a little off track but sometimes cabling can enable or affect other setup options.
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I've used the Homegrown Audio Silver Lace speaker wire for 8 foot runs that have worked reasonably well.
Agree with all above.
I have ascent I and actually did a test with long pair of basic 30 foot copper 14 awg that I had lying around. Also had a pair of same wire at about 15 foot doubled for each speaker.
It was a startling improvement (e.g. less "muddy") over the long 30 foot cable. Having said that, 14 awg will work, but at those lengths, consider thicker.
Agree with all above.
I have ascent I and actually did a test with long pair of basic 30 foot copper 14 awg that I had lying around. Also had a pair of same wire at about 15 foot doubled for each speaker.
It was a startling improvement (e.g. less "muddy") over the long 30 foot cable. Having said that, 14 awg will work, but at those lengths, consider thicker.
Was there a considerable difference (the muddy sound vs the shorter run)? I'm contemplating if it's worth the effort of repulling cable in walls and above ceiling.
Thanks!
Yes, it was immediately noticeable for me.
Urgh. I too am contemplating re-pulling some wire, but I think the reverse configuration that you. I'm assuming that you're looking to pull wire for the Fronts.
I just installed two Logos in the ceiling as my surrounds. 13 Years ago, I pulled 14 gauge wire (best fire rated cable available at that time) Note if you're dealing with an inspector and fire code....
In some way, I regret not using better wire, but it would be very compelling for me, to pull decent wire for the fronts. I don't know how much you've spent on the rest of your system, or if you also get the upgrade bug ever so often.
If you think that you're more than likely to upgrade your system rather than keep same for 10 years and likely to stay at the property for at least 5-7 years, and the wires are very accessible and easy to pull, you should consider. (especially if you're doing yourself, rather than hiring expensive constractor to re-patch all the holes through the joists.
Regards@!
