what a difference POWER makes!

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NicksPicks

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My system has undergone some changes..., at the heart of which are new amps.

I went from an Odyssey Cyclops Integrated (135wpc) to Odyssey Stratos MONO-BLOCKS (150w), and the difference is nothing short of astounding.

Sub-whoofer..., out the window.
It was like someone flicked a switch and turned on the whoofers. Bass presentation is almost *too thick* at times now. Just the way I like it.

I'll have to update my member systems page.
But I thought I'd share this w/you guys who are not quite satisfied w/the bass output of your MLs. Just dump more wattage in them and see what happens.
 
I went from an Odyssey Cyclops Integrated (135wpc) to Odyssey Stratos MONO-BLOCKS (150w), and the difference is nothing short of astounding.
While the wattage difference is not significant for the change, it is the type of power (quality) you are getting from the Mono Blocks responsible for the new results you are getting.

Sub-whoofer..., out the window. It was like someone flicked a switch and turned on the whoofers. Bass presentation is almost *too thick* at times now. Just the way I like it.
The last time I heard the Odyssey amps, they were a warmer sounding amp. Glad to hear they match up well in your setup.
 
Yes, Nick, size does matter. ;)



Dan is correct, the 11% increase in power has next to nothing to do with the improvement, rather the way in which his new amplification presents itself (the quality of the power rather than the power itself, like 'Roberto' says !)
 
I noticed the same thing when I got the sunfire amp from Cherian. Man, the bass is so much tighter and the soundstage is way wider. Big difference over the yamaha integrated amp. I will post a review soon.

Erik
 
Size matters

But I thought I'd share this w/you guys who are not quite satisfied w/the bass output of your MLs. Just dump more wattage in them and see what happens.
Dumping more wattage does NOT solve this problem. It has to do with the QUALITY of the power on tap that's responsible for the differences you're hearing. As far as I can tell, the items responsible for the differences are:
  1. Huge power supplies in the monoblocs vs the single power supply in the Cyclops. With the monoblocs, you have essentially more than double the reserve power-supply at input for each channel, ready to go. Yep size does matter here!
  2. The Stratos monoblocs are biased more heavily toward class-A operations. I remember reading somewhere that the Cyclops has class-A output up to 10wpc and then switches over to class A/B. Compare that to the Stratos' 30wpc in class-A before switching over.

Just thought I'd clarify things a bit on the quality of...WATTs.

Spike
 
I believe what people are trying to say is it is the improved high CURRENT capability rather then the POWER increase that is responsible for improving the ML's sound.

High Current Amps = Good with ML's without their own powered woofers.
-Allen
 
And with powered woofers . . . .

I believe what people are trying to say is it is the improved high CURRENT capability rather then the POWER increase that is responsible for improving the ML's sound.

High Current Amps = Good with ML's without their own powered woofers.
-Allen

Wouldn't we get the same sound improvement by adding "improved high CURRENT capability" to even ML's with powered woofers, as with the Vantages and Summits?

When reading amp specs, it's easy to fing the WATT ratings, but what am I looking for to measure CURRENT output? I usually see no reference to "current" directly on spec sheets. Is it called something else?

What amps are rated for quality high Current?

What is it about the "high end" (translated expensive) power amps that translates into "quality current"? Power supply size?

JM
 
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What is it about the "high end" (translated expensive) power amps that translates into "quality current"? Power supply size?

JM

Doesn't necessarily have to be high end as there are some very high quality amps that are middle of the road brand-wise ( I wouldnt dare quote names as what one person considers high end another may not). Everyone makes a stinker every once in a while but in my experience, you invest in a Krell, Pass Labs etc...you expect quality and get it. Easiest way to explain it though is what is it about high end speakers (also translated as expensive) that translates into quality sound? In this field you do tend to get what ya pay for. Ferrari versus a Hyundai. Just my 2 centavos.
 
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My system has undergone some changes..., at the heart of which are new amps.

I went from an Odyssey Cyclops Integrated (135wpc) to Odyssey Stratos MONO-BLOCKS (150w), and the difference is nothing short of astounding.

Sub-whoofer..., out the window.
It was like someone flicked a switch and turned on the whoofers. Bass presentation is almost *too thick* at times now. Just the way I like it.

It may be worth a try to slap on a couple of nice after market power cords to further improve your power. Your bass may tighten up. You may get a darker, more quiet background, and you may hear more detail. It never hurts to try, and your system may go to the next level altogether.
 
thanks for the clarification fellas...

I knew that the wattage difference was minimal, and that the quality of the amps was the big deal. I just neglected to mention that I guess.

Klaus (owner of odyssey) told me that the stratus mono's where waaaaay superior to even just a straight up stratus amp. all that current on tap is definitely responsible.

in any case..i'm diggin' it. big time.

as for power cords. I'll make my own. I'd have to spend a shitload to get the lengths I need in a quality cable.

fwiw...I make cable fellas.
:)
all silver clad OFHC copper, mill-spec stuff. works pretty damn'd good, IMO and is far cheaper than retailers.
DIY is where its at.

I'm going to send these amps off to Odyssey for the "extreme" upgrade. As soon as I have a spare chunk of money to invest.
 
fwiw...I make cable fellas.
:)
all silver clad OFHC copper, mill-spec stuff. works pretty damn'd good, IMO and is far cheaper than retailers.
DIY is where its at.

I'm going to send these amps off to Odyssey for the "extreme" upgrade. As soon as I have a spare chunk of money to invest.

Potentially cheaper would be a dedicated high power circuit to your amps - maybe you have done this already.

Kevin
 
When reading amp specs, it's easy to fing the WATT ratings, but what am I looking for to measure CURRENT output? I usually see no reference to "current" directly on spec sheets. Is it called something else?



JM

Current would be the amperage listed in amps on a spec sheet. The higher the amperage the higher the current.
 
Current would be the amperage listed in amps on a spec sheet. The higher the amperage the higher the current.

Unfortunately, a lot of companies do not list the amperage output on thier spec sheets. I.E. Cary Audio, Krell, BAT, Conrad Johnson, Classe, Art Audio...etc. At least none of these do online. It would be very helpful if they did.
 
What you are probably hearing a lot of as well, is the significantly lower distortion that you get from both channels not having to share a transformer or any other power supply components.

Monoblocks are always the way to go if you have the space...

Enjoy!
 
"mono" blocks in the same chassis . . . BAT VK6200, VK600

Monoblocks are always the way to go if you have the space...

Enjoy!

What about SS dual "mono" amps that share the same chassis like the BAT VK-600 and VK600SE? Or better yet, their multi-channel beast, the BAT VK-6200? The VK 600 even has seperate power cords per side! I've been eyeing the VK6200 (since I may do HT in the future) and wonder if the benefits of "mono" amps in seperate chassis are really acheived in units sharing the same chassis.

Thoughts on chassis sharing "mono", especially the BAT VK6200?
Who owns this amp? MiTT out there? Reviews say the VK6200 is a great amp even for 2 channel listening.

Thanks!

JM
 
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