Leethomas
Member
This continues the project from Part 1 in which I was applying the conductive fluid to the mylar film..Photo 1 shows a few sections coated, you can see the more opaque coating.
The original coating was applied only up to about 3 or 4mm from the spars, so then I 'rubbed off' some of the coating, as in photo 2. This was done before it cured, soon after application.
Photo 3 shows the completed panel, note the new copper strip along the other side and the connection under the black tape to the original connection.
Well, once that was done, I simply mounted the top stator back in position, and there was plenty of the sticky stuff on the original stripping on top and bottom of the stator to allow this. This could be glued, but I felt it would be good to allow future renovation to take place by not glueing; It is in fact the side wooden panels that compress the top and bottom stators together, when the panel is in position on the frame.
All that remained after was to replace the panel on the main speaker frame, then slide and knock into place the wooden side panels, and then connect up the panels 3 wires to the crossover board.
The first time I did it I can't say I wasn't Cr*pping myself; I had visions of a 1940's style Flash Gordon electrical firework display and the mylar bursting into flames! At least I expected nasty arcing noises!
Well, there were a few tiny clicks and then silence, and Voila!! Beautiful music emerging from the renovated panel, a lot louder, brighter and stronger sounding!
So after doing the 2nd Sequel, I reckon it's a success!!
The 4th photo shows the Sequels completed!
(And yes, that is an Avantgarde uno behind!)
Again I have to say many thanks to Rob Mackinlay from ER audio for his advice and numerous tips.
Hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed renovating!
Lee
The original coating was applied only up to about 3 or 4mm from the spars, so then I 'rubbed off' some of the coating, as in photo 2. This was done before it cured, soon after application.
Photo 3 shows the completed panel, note the new copper strip along the other side and the connection under the black tape to the original connection.
Well, once that was done, I simply mounted the top stator back in position, and there was plenty of the sticky stuff on the original stripping on top and bottom of the stator to allow this. This could be glued, but I felt it would be good to allow future renovation to take place by not glueing; It is in fact the side wooden panels that compress the top and bottom stators together, when the panel is in position on the frame.
All that remained after was to replace the panel on the main speaker frame, then slide and knock into place the wooden side panels, and then connect up the panels 3 wires to the crossover board.
The first time I did it I can't say I wasn't Cr*pping myself; I had visions of a 1940's style Flash Gordon electrical firework display and the mylar bursting into flames! At least I expected nasty arcing noises!
Well, there were a few tiny clicks and then silence, and Voila!! Beautiful music emerging from the renovated panel, a lot louder, brighter and stronger sounding!
So after doing the 2nd Sequel, I reckon it's a success!!
The 4th photo shows the Sequels completed!
(And yes, that is an Avantgarde uno behind!)
Again I have to say many thanks to Rob Mackinlay from ER audio for his advice and numerous tips.
Hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed renovating!
Lee