Quest with minidsp hd

[rawatch]

I removed the woofer from the crossover and used the minidsp hd to send 75hz to 120hz to the woofer and 10hz to 70hz to my depth I sub with the lfe input. I tried to use the dsp to the panel but didn’t like it loss of some clarity
Plan to upgrade the crossover hf section with ERSA and sonic caps
Any other opinions would be great
Robert

 

[JonFo]

Good to hear about your experiences.
Do you use REW and a measurement Mic to confirm the settings?

If you want to try the miniDSP on the panel again, try to high-pass the panel at 300Hz 24dB/Oct., and set the same 300Hz for the low-pass to the Woofer.
That will be above the built-in high-pass for the panel, which is way to low.
It should deliver better mid-bass.
But you would need a 2x6 crossover to also handle a sub.

 

[rawatch]

Good to hear about your experiences.
Do you use REW and a measurement Mic to confirm the settings?

If you want to try the miniDSP on the panel again, try to high-pass the panel at 300Hz 24dB/Oct., and set the same 300Hz for the low-pass to the Woofer.
That will be above the built-in high-pass for the panel, which is way to low.
It should deliver better mid-bass.
But you would need a 2x6 crossover to also handle a sub.

I did that following one of your previous threads but I did notice a little clarity issue
I do have the tools verify the setting rew and audio tools

 

[rawatch]

I did that following one of your previous threads but I did notice a little clarity issue
I do have the tools verify the setting rew and audio tools

At 125hz crossover point to increase it to 300 esl panel to what benefit the woofer is slow in comparison

 

[rawatch]

Good to hear about your experiences.
Do you use REW and a measurement Mic to confirm the settings?

If you want to try the miniDSP on the panel again, try to high-pass the panel at 300Hz 24dB/Oct., and set the same 300Hz for the low-pass to the Woofer.
That will be above the built-in high-pass for the panel, which is way to low.
It should deliver better mid-bass.
But you would need a 2x6 crossover to also handle a sub.

If the speaker impedance is 4 ohms does it mean that the hf esl panel alone is 8 ohms?

 

[JonFo]

At 125hz crossover point to increase it to 300 esl panel to what benefit the woofer is slow in comparison

While a newer woofer with a lighter moving mass (like the Peerless 830669 I used) will help, even the original can play into the 300's.

There is more to be gained by not straining the panel with low-frequencies. It's why all modern MLs use a XO of 240 or higher.

 

[JonFo]

If the speaker impedance is 4 ohms does it mean that the hf esl panel alone is 8 ohms?

When going active and using two amps, no need to worry about impedance. Just balance the gains in the miniDSP based on actual measurements.

The ESL high-pass crossover and panel present loads between 1 and 6 Ohms IIRC. But again, as long as the amp can handle them, and you balance the gains, not critical anymore.

 

[rawatch]

While a newer woofer with a lighter moving mass (like the Peerless 830669 I used) will help, even the original can play into the 300's.

There is more to be gained by not straining the panel with low-frequencies. It's why all modern MLs use a XO of 240 or higher.

I am testing the dsp again, it seems to Be cheap for that woofer it is faster than original and good performance?

 

[JonFo]

It might be low-cost, but it is a good performer, I've used them in my Monoliths since 2008, and they are still great. I cross over to the huge Monolith panel at 315Hz these days.
And cross over to my 4x subs at 80Hz.
And the moving-mass of this Peerless is indeed lower than the original woofer, so it is cleaner higher up (lower THD at high levels).

 

[rawatch]

It might be low-cost, but it is a good performer, I've used them in my Monoliths since 2008, and they are still great. I cross over to the huge Monolith panel at 315Hz these days.
And cross over to my 4x subs at 80Hz.
And the moving-mass of this Peerless is indeed lower than the original woofer, so it is cleaner higher up (lower THD at high levels).

To remove the woofer the wood sides need to be removed? And the grill is slot loaded did you modify that?

 

[JonFo]

Ah, you need to search and read all the threads on the site from previous Quest owners renovating and updating their units. Start here, and follow a sub-linked thread from C.A.P. as well: Quest Restoration Project

And this one as well, although it's more focused in XO bypass, there are useful pics and comments from Quest owners: Passive Crossover bypass – Quest / reQuest

 

[JonFo]

I believe replacement is fairly simple, unscrew the old one, pull out from the front, drop in the replacement, and screw that one down.

Easier if you open the back. And better yet if you bypass the passive elements to the woofer while you are at it.

 

[rawatch]

I believe replacement is fairly simple, unscrew the old one, pull out from the front, drop in the replacement, and screw that one down.

Easier if you open the back. And better yet if you bypass the passive elements to the woofer while you are at it.

Yes I already bypassed crossovers for bass driver just getting the speaker cover off is more of a trick

 

[rawatch]

have you washed your panels? I vacuumed mine they look really clean but they are 25 years old

 

[rawatch]

This is the current curve with no eq

 

[JonFo]

I have never washed panels, even though my Sequels are now 27 years old. I'll probably buy new ones instead.

On that frequency plot, it looks like the XO is at or near 125Hz, right?

I'd recommend raising it to 250Hz at least. And possibly adjusting the woofer gain up by a few dB.

 

[rawatch]

Ordered the peerless woofers and I am going to get something like dynamat to line the box and the speaker basket, moved the dsp to 300hz to 80hz for the sub