Gordon Gray
Well-known member
That's what I did (locking bananas). Works quite well.
GG
GG
Jumpers?
- Thread starter beek
- Start date
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tsv_1
Well-known member
Hi Bernard... I would wager that it would subtly impact the sound... you directly impact the load impedance as seen by the amplifier when you double (or halve) the speaker run. Two runs of wire (effectively run in parallel) offers lower R, lower L, and higher C versus one run. These deltas are generally small relative to the speaker load itself, but not entirely negligable in a highly revealing system, which of course yours is.
Now, whether or not to break open the box and start heating up that soldering iron, not sure that's going to give you a whole lot more than just a decent pair of jumpers would... having said that though, there are plenty of mod-squadders out there that take great pride in maximizing the signal path's intergrity... which is to say, minimizing the signal path and removing connection points wherever possible.
Now, whether or not to break open the box and start heating up that soldering iron, not sure that's going to give you a whole lot more than just a decent pair of jumpers would... having said that though, there are plenty of mod-squadders out there that take great pride in maximizing the signal path's intergrity... which is to say, minimizing the signal path and removing connection points wherever possible.
roberto
Well-known member
I was lucky to able to do it at 90° one to the other... not so difficult for me. Hand tighten is enough. You could leave the securing screw without threads...that happened to me once. I was at an amplifier binding posts, not a ML speaker. I had to buy four binding posts, because the one that I broke, was at the amplifier, and the company was out of business. Can't forget that!!!
Bernard
Well-known member
Todd, one reason I was considering the mod is that at the amplifier end my ARC's have old-style terminal blocks with screws, and it's a PITA to try and tighten down the screws on two spades (one inserted from the top and the other inserted from the bottom (no wisecracks, please)); imagine trying to hold two spades in place with one hand while bearing down on the screw with the other! If I made the mod I would have just one spade to worry about, and the screwing would be easier.
tsv_1
Well-known member
Good gravy Bernard... you do know it's like torture for me, reading your comments but then being politely asked to dial down the immaturity, right? Your last six words alone are a virtual gold mine!
beek
Well-known member
Hi Bernard... I would wager that it would subtly impact the sound... you directly impact the load impedance as seen by the amplifier when you double (or halve) the speaker run. Two runs of wire (effectively run in parallel) offers lower R, lower L, and higher C versus one run. These deltas are generally small relative to the speaker load itself, but not entirely negligable in a highly revealing system, which of course yours is.
Completely agree,
First attempt at bi-wiring this morning Canare 4s11 to woofers & plain Jane 14 ga. In wall cable to stats.
Too early to play CD's now doing FM. Would be interested in trying a low C cable (mogami) to the stat later...
Completely agree,
First attempt at bi-wiring this morning Canare 4s11 to woofers & plain Jane 14 ga. In wall cable to stats.
Too early to play CD's now doing FM. Would be interested in trying a low C cable (mogami) to the stat later...
Last edited:
beek
Well-known member
I think the term is also called shot gunning, 2 pairs of cables per leg sometimes set in different or similar geometric/direction differences.
Bernard
Well-known member
Dave, your comment no doubt comes from your extrapolating to me from your own experience!
roberto
Well-known member
So if you are saying that the lower inductance, lower resistance and lower capacitance, it is the best cable... Nordost is one brand that has this feature, but I do not like all their productcs... There are good choices out there having different specs, and I do like very much the sound of those ones. The best is, trust your ears and get the one that you liked most. Mathematics, physics, show us the way, the path, but that it is not enough. I think that bi-wired option is good when there is not a built in any power amplifier for the bass. If you read at the specs, the load impedance for the bass amp is over or around 3000 ohms, the amplifier never will read this high impedance. Only the bass signal will be applied to the speaker's circuit, but will not load our amplifier, makig this, that our amp literally will drive just the stat panels, not bass. From Vantage and up, we have this feature, up to the Summitsx. Theos will like it to be bi-wired, because of what tvs_1 and Beed said, and a reason why the Theos comes with bi-wired option. Happy listening,
R.
R.
gander222
Member
Binding posts first, jumpers second
Hello all.
Maybe everyone is doing this and I will sound like the dumb newbie here. If so, go easy on me. However, I've not seen one mention in this thread about on which binding posts the speaker cables should be attached. A buddy of mine who turned me onto ML speakers has sl3's and he puts the speaker wire on the lower binding posts, with jumpers to the upper posts, so I did that too when I got my Sequel 2's. However, I was thinking about it last night, and the whole point of ML speakers is the electrostatic panel and the lower mid to high end, and certainly NOT the woofer and the low end.
So why was I connecting my excellent speaker wire to the lower binding posts, and then sending that mid-high signal, with all its beautiful harmonics, through the cheapest jumper imaginable, virtually choking 90+% of the beauty in the sound? And even if you have your own jumpers, is that short bit of wire as good as your (relatively) expensive speaker cable? Doesn't the electrostatic panel deserve the best signal, if you had to choose between that and the woofer? So I took two minutes and moved the speaker cable to the upper binding posts and voila! Way more sound and detail. What a HUGE difference. I'm sure more than if you spent big money on fancy jumpers.
Of course you want good jumpers now anyway because now the lower frequencies must crawl their way to the woofer through whatever jumpers you have.
And here is the kicker. After I had this great brainstorm, this flash of brilliance (haha), I actually looked at the hookup instructions in the ML Sequel 2 owner's manual online. Lo and behold, they show a single connection to the UPPER binding posts!!! Talk about RTFM (Read The F***ing Manual)! I laughed so hard at that, but not too hard, since my speakers were sounding so much better.
So thereya go. Before you even begin to think about better jumpers, make sure you connect to the upper binding posts. At that point, better jumpers can only make the lows better.
BTW I made my own jumpers (it's very easy, if you are so inclined), and after I made the switch, the bass actually sounded tighter and cleaner. Weird.
With that all being said, I found another set of speaker cables and I am bi-wiring now. LOL!
Gary
Hello all.
Maybe everyone is doing this and I will sound like the dumb newbie here. If so, go easy on me. However, I've not seen one mention in this thread about on which binding posts the speaker cables should be attached. A buddy of mine who turned me onto ML speakers has sl3's and he puts the speaker wire on the lower binding posts, with jumpers to the upper posts, so I did that too when I got my Sequel 2's. However, I was thinking about it last night, and the whole point of ML speakers is the electrostatic panel and the lower mid to high end, and certainly NOT the woofer and the low end.
So why was I connecting my excellent speaker wire to the lower binding posts, and then sending that mid-high signal, with all its beautiful harmonics, through the cheapest jumper imaginable, virtually choking 90+% of the beauty in the sound? And even if you have your own jumpers, is that short bit of wire as good as your (relatively) expensive speaker cable? Doesn't the electrostatic panel deserve the best signal, if you had to choose between that and the woofer? So I took two minutes and moved the speaker cable to the upper binding posts and voila! Way more sound and detail. What a HUGE difference. I'm sure more than if you spent big money on fancy jumpers.
Of course you want good jumpers now anyway because now the lower frequencies must crawl their way to the woofer through whatever jumpers you have.
And here is the kicker. After I had this great brainstorm, this flash of brilliance (haha), I actually looked at the hookup instructions in the ML Sequel 2 owner's manual online. Lo and behold, they show a single connection to the UPPER binding posts!!! Talk about RTFM (Read The F***ing Manual)! I laughed so hard at that, but not too hard, since my speakers were sounding so much better.
So thereya go. Before you even begin to think about better jumpers, make sure you connect to the upper binding posts. At that point, better jumpers can only make the lows better.
BTW I made my own jumpers (it's very easy, if you are so inclined), and after I made the switch, the bass actually sounded tighter and cleaner. Weird.
With that all being said, I found another set of speaker cables and I am bi-wiring now. LOL!
Gary
