Jumpers?

[beek]

Has anybody tried other jumpers other than the stock units that come with the bi wire models?
Wondering if it was worth the expense.
What works?

Thanx Bill

 

[TomDac]

I have the anti-cables jumpers on my Summits. They look cool. Can't really tell any difference.

 

[Rich]

Suggest you try the search function. I remember several different threads on this subject in the past.

 

[Gordon Gray]

Bill,

FWIW, I found they made a substantial difference on the ML's as well as the MBL's.

GG

 

[cordovox]

Hi Bill

I've made new jumpers using the same cable that I use to connect them to the amp (Kimber 8TC) and they work fine. Even better than with the ones that came w/ the speakers (I bought them 2nd hand and the previous owner made them w/ some sort of metal, tha doesn't even seem to be copper and were totally corrosed)

More focused bass and more open and detailed midrange / treble

Don't know if it might be a solution for you...

 

[JordanD]

I noticed a difference. I am using the AudioQuest Jumpers.

 

[amey01]

Definitely throw the supplied ones. I would suggest using speaker cable of the same type you are using from the amp.

 

[RichTeer]

I reviewed Nordost's Norse Jumpers with my Spires recently. Read the review (in issue 6, IIRC) for the full skinny, but the short story is yes: ditch the supplied jumpers.

 

[Peter Soderberg]

I have to jump in. Rich is right, there are several threads on this, some of which I have said what i will say again. ML only uses those cheap jumpers as they are usually, in the hands of an audiophile customer, tossed asap. I will usually suggest a short run of the same cable that one is using as his main speaker cable, but experiment. In no way will ML say that the current jumpers are the end all be all of jumpers. A reality of the market place is if we took a postion with one brand versus another, it would be a political football. Sort of like the power cord question. I do usually use MIT as I worked for them for a long while so understand what they bring to a system, critical when there are so many other variables in show conditions, so it is good to have a "known". I do not mean that everyone should run out and buy MIT. I do personally understand it and use it at home.

 

[Bernard]

Peter, it would be interesting to see you post your system here, in the Members' Systems section.

 

[invenio]

Another option is to use a bi-wire configuration and then you don't have to worry about jumpers. Of course this may be more expensive depending on the cable.

 

[twich54]

ML only uses those cheap jumpers as they are usually, in the hands of an audiophile customer, tossed asap.

so that explains why they finally removed the other pair of binding posts on the new Spire replacement................

 

[Bernard]

Peter, someone here suggested doing away completely with jumpers and bi-wiring and hard-wiring internally the two pairs of cables to one pair of terminals. It's understood that this would void the warranty (something I am not concerned about as my speakers have been out of warranty for several years), but do you have any thoughts on whether this would be worth doing sonically?

 

[Peter Soderberg]

I see little value in doing that, if one uses a decent jumper on down to the next terminal. you would only be removing the one extra connection point on the outside of the cabinet with the binding post and since it is in the low end, I doubt it would have any audible change.
AS to posting my system, that would be a slippery one as in my job lots go in and out. I am back in Kansas enough at listening/design meetings that would qualify as my second home as otherwise i and the others are on the road a lot. All of us road warriors are visiting so many soundrooms with so many different systems out there, we can live vicarioulsy through our dealers as well. Sort of a "don't buy a mechanics car" syndrome. Since it is our jobs, we all actually never get a chance to enjoy as much as we would like. All of us do have decent systems though, as it is what got us in this position in the first place.

 

[roberto]

Hola Peter... we just love your recommendations . We do know that your hearing skill is very well educated, because of the reason above. You had listenend a lot of different gears, and different systems with combinations that we would never will have a chance to listen... therefore, you are a kind of Guru who enlighten us with your thoughts and directions. Also, some guys at the forum do no know all your potencial and your knowledge regarding general audio, and of course, your wisdom advises for all ML goods. Please keep doing it!...

 

[Bernard]

I see little value in doing that, if one uses a decent jumper on down to the next terminal. you would only be removing the one extra connection point on the outside of the cabinet with the binding post and since it is in the low end, I doubt it would have any audible change.

Looking at it from another point of view: I currently have a double run of cables for biwiring. If I did the internal mod I could eliminate one set of (expensive) cables. Would this have any effect on the sound? The money from selling the cables could be used for upgrades elsewhere.

 

[roberto]

Bernard, using a buit in amplifier, there is no benefit to have it bi-wired, but the other models that are not, my ears can tell that bi-wired is a good thing. First of all, the bass is more robust and profound, and the stage is more life-like. Also the dynamics change for good. The amplifier seems to be less stressed at high level, usually you can tell that using the same SPL average in your listening room, with bi-wired, the volume knob is pointing less level. Le'ts say that without bi-wired, your usually volume control is pointing 10 0'clock with bi-wired usually points 9 o'clock. This means that using bi-wired, you are saving power energy from your amp, making easier to drive difficult passages with no problem.

 

[papageno]

Can anybody provide a decent rec for Jumper cables for the ML vantage

To all the gurus of jumper cables,
Can anybody please me a few recs for jumper cables for my ML vantage which won't break the bank. I have a Transparent 10AWG cable to my vantages. And should the jumper cable have spade or banana connects. Currently I have spade terminations.
Appreciate the advice

 

[roberto]

Spades connectors are the best. You can make the cables easy. Get four spades made out of silver ( The Eichmann XS Silver spade uses unplated pure Silver over the Oxygen-Free High Conductivity Copper (OFHC) for superior conductivity and sound quality. The new Eichmann XS series spade is optimized for mass, contact area, and thickness for reduced reactance, solid bass, and smooth detailed music reproduction. My be soldered or crimped. Sold as a set of 4, and supplied with heatshrink for ends. 1/4" size is only size we stock, and they are closeout priced from $115.95. These are the ORIGINAL version of the ETI silver spades) http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-speaker.html
You can buy silver solder at Rata Shack and buy from Sivler Sonic http://www.silversonic.com/docs/products/T14.html .5 meter and make them. I do not know if they sell that little cable. You can ask them the minimum size of the T-14. This will not brake your bank and will have a very nice sounding jumpers.

 

[sleepysurf]

IMHO, the logical answer would be to use Transparent 10AWG jumpers (if available, or DIY). Alternatively, perhaps you can find out what type of speaker wire ML uses internally from the terminals, and use that (I vaguely recall them mentioning Kimber cable when we toured the factory a few years back, but I'm not sure). As for the jumper terminations, if your speaker cables have spades, I suggest getting jumpers with locking bananas, if possible. Trust me, it can be a royal pain trying to tighten TWO sets of spades per terminal.