How do you clean the cabinet and frame that has the old style "black suede paint"?

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tav1

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How do you clean the cabinet and frame that has the old style "black suede paint"?

How do you clean the cabinet and frame that has the old style "black suede paint"? Just a dry, soft, lint-free towel?
Thanks,
Torry V.
 
Is the paint in ok condition or has it become sticky like my old Quests did.
 
I just use my vacume with a brush attachment. If you have any spots to be removed, wipe with a damp cloth and dry off with a dry cotton cloth. Thats my method.
 
Get rid of it its toxic stuff. NEXTEL Paint was discontinued by ML and many other users. It was originally a Dark room paint. You will be better off with cleaning it with 91% Isoprophyl alcohol and it will smooth out a bit. Then you can lightly sand and repaint with a good textured paint !
 
I is slightly sticky and a very flat black. It does not have an major issues, just a little dusty here and there. Some minor light scratches that you can't even feel.
It must be the old style paint as my speakers were made in 93 or 94. My Logos and Scripts are non-sticky. I don't want to repaint them. I'd stir up that stuff. I'll do the dry cloth method and damp cloth as needed. I've always used the dry cloth in the past, I was just wondering if there was some better method. I wonder why they ever used that stuff.
Thanks.
Torry V.
 
Had the same, exact issue with a pair of 1989 Sequel II's. I used the old standby Kramer's Antique Improver, applied gently with a piece of 0000 steel wool, then wiped down with an old tee shirt. Worked great! Work in a circular pattern and in reasonably small areas at a time.
 
What condition will the paint be after using the Kramer's Antique Improver? Not sticky, but still have the same dull black appearance? I would think you would have to remove all of the paint for it not to be sticky anymore. Maybe the sticky stuff is only on the surface?
Thanks,
Torry V.
 
What condition will the paint be after using the Kramer's Antique Improver? Not sticky, but still have the same dull black appearance? I would think you would have to remove all of the paint for it not to be sticky anymore. Maybe the sticky stuff is only on the surface?
Thanks,
Torry V.
The paint remains flat black and all the stickiness is gone. Trick is to use a light touch i.e. don't leave it on too long or get too aggressive with the steel wool. Kramer's is great stuff and I've used it on everything from antique furniture to vintage handplanes.
 
My original Sequels became sticky about 2 years ago, and every time I moved them, I would get black marks on my hands. Having read abou tthe toxicity of the paint when it begins to degrade, I decided NOT to completely refinish them, but I did initiate a program of very agressive cleaning and sealing, and it has resulted in speakers that no longer leave skidmarks, and look pretty good.

I removed the ESL panels first, so that I wouldn't damage them with any stray cleaning solution.

Then, I used a LOT of those Windex Wipes (the ones that come in a plastic can) to wipe and wipe and wipe the cabinets until they no longer took off any black. At this point the finish will look like crap--streaky and blotchy, but don't worry--this gets fixed soon enough...

Then, I let then dry overnight, and began rubbing the cabinets down with silicone-based "tire shine" treatment (the kind you get in a pump bottle at car parts stores). Letting each coat dry over night (and you have to work FAST putting each coat on or it will streak all to hell), I put about 3 coats of this stuff on, until the cabinets looked even and semi-gloss black again.

Then another overnight drying time.

Then, to seal it all up, I put three coats of "Nu-Finish" over the silicone. This is the polymer car wax that somes in the bright orange bottle. This stuff is an AMAZING sealant--I use it to seal the bare-metal parts of my antique printing presses and they will stay rust-free for 2 or three years, even after being splashed with ink and press wash on a weekly basis.

Now my speakers look good--they have a nice matte black finish, and they don't smudge my hands when I move them. It was a fair amount of work, but nowhere NEAR as much work (or as potentially hazardous to my health) as stripping the NEXTEL finish completely off and having them re-painted.

Think "outside the box", man... ;)

--Richard
 
I also had this issue with my Quests. I just used water and a rough sponge and rubbed vigorously. I found that I got the paint back to a non-sticky and fairly uniform in colour layer but it took quite a bit of rubbing and many sponges as the balck stuff eventually clogged up the sponge.

The only problem was that some sections got sticky again after a while but other sections did not. and they did look much better than before but not perfect.
 
As stated , I would take the panels off (its easy , pop rails upwards and 3 tiny screws that hold the wires on and its off) smooth out with Rubbing alcohol. Re paint with a good textured paint. You will not only visually make them look new they will be much safer for you and your kids. NEXTEL is TOXIC ! Especially when it gets soft and sticky .

While you have the rails off, you can address them if needed or you want to re stain them . The sanding sealer ML used is easily sanded off with 120 grit by hand.


http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5697&highlight=quest+to+be+different


Here is the rebuild of a set of Quest I did and sold.
 
Repaint of Quest z's

So like a few others here, my Quest z's became sticky on the paint front. Annoyed me a lot considering the hi end pricing and nature of the speaker. They were 1994 vintage and the problem showed up around 2004.

Anyway to cut a long story short, I dismantled the speakers, took to them to my local car paint shop and today they sport Toyota paint colour Black Onyx with multiple coats of clear.

The finish is superb and they look so elegant in a piano gloss finish, I wish I had thought of this years ago!

The only challenge the paintshop had was the sanders gumming up with the old Newtex paint and some pin holing of the new paint initially during application.

All other ML's in the house are 2002 or later and have not shown any coating issues yet, although the finish appears to have changed meanwhile.

I do like the fact that one can replace any components oneself during the life of the speaker ( unlike earlier Magnaplanars I used to own ) .

A great speaker company nonetheless.

Fjeff
 
So like a few others here, my Quest z's became sticky on the paint front. Annoyed me a lot considering the hi end pricing and nature of the speaker. They were 1994 vintage and the problem showed up around 2004.

Anyway to cut a long story short, I dismantled the speakers, took to them to my local car paint shop and today they sport Toyota paint colour Black Onyx with multiple coats of clear.

The finish is superb and they look so elegant in a piano gloss finish, I wish I had thought of this years ago!

The only challenge the paintshop had was the sanders gumming up with the old Newtex paint and some pin holing of the new paint initially during application.

All other ML's in the house are 2002 or later and have not shown any coating issues yet, although the finish appears to have changed meanwhile.

I do like the fact that one can replace any components oneself during the life of the speaker ( unlike earlier Magnaplanars I used to own ) .

A great speaker company nonetheless.

Fjeff

I've been thinking of doing the same.

But I'm nt sure what you mean when you say they gummed up the NEXTEL paint. Didn't they strip all the old paint off first?

I was also going to ask how much this cost, but since this was in New Zealand...

Last request - show us some pics please :)

Oh, and some bad news. This is no longer true :( ""I do like the fact that one can replace any components oneself during the life of the speaker ( unlike earlier Magnaplanars I used to own ) ."
 
Here is a photo of my nasty looking Sequel 2 next to my ReQuest.

The ReQuest are fine, but I'll end up getting them refinished to either piano black or some kinda wood veneer. I'll probably just paint the SQL myself - no need to spend all that $$$ on them since they're in a dark theater room where no one can really see their ugliness.
 

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Hi Peter,

If you apply generous amount of vinyl enhancer and it will make the coating look new. Until reading this thread I was not aware this coating was toxic:eek:. I need to study up on it. I have had my Sequels since late 80's!
 
Hi Peter,

If you apply generous amount of vinyl enhancer and it will make the coating look new. Until reading this thread I was not aware this coating was toxic:eek:. I need to study up on it. I have had my Sequels since late 80's!


Thanks for the suggestion, but I'd rather just remove that toxic stuff. Plus I think any fix other than removing it will just allow it to reappear in time. It might even look cool to strip it down to bare wood and leave it like that for a while until I paint them.
 
As Nike used to say Peter, Just do it!

I've been thinking of doing the same.

But I'm nt sure what you mean when you say they gummed up the NEXTEL paint. Didn't they strip all the old paint off first?

I was also going to ask how much this cost, but since this was in New Zealand...

Last request - show us some pics please :)

Oh, and some bad news. This is no longer true :( ""I do like the fact that one can replace any components oneself during the life of the speaker ( unlike earlier Magnaplanars I used to own ) ."

I actually has them painted in the Middle East when I lived there and labour costs were affordable. The sanding down of the cabinets annoyed the painters as the sanding papers gummed up with the old paint which was so sticky.

Did I understand correctly, we can no longer order replacement stators, speakers, crossovers?....ouch.

Finally, a pic or two as an attachment, sorry about the mess, still unpacking but I see my hairy leg reflected in the high gloss finish! LOL

fjeff
 

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WOW! They look AMAZING! WHat a shine!

I'll remove my paint myself, and that should save me a TON of money. Just like painting a car, the prep work is where most of the cost is.

Yes, unfortunately tomorrow, for the first time, ML will stop taking part orders for some of their first few models. This includes Quest Z :( Look at the main forum page, page 1, in the thread named "Service Notice for Discontinued Products". I'd call their number right away and order a set! For ReQuest, price is $900 plus around $75 for shipping.
 

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