Gordon's DIY Fiberglass Wall Panels

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gordonmenninger

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Ok, so I had some problems with my SL3's sounding somewhat bright in my theater / basement. When watching movies, my wife kept saying "what did he say"? etc, so I was not very happy with having a hard time hearing the center channel clearly... I searched these forums and found out that I need some kind of absorption behind the center. I threw some pillows behind the center to test it out and it immediately changed the sound for the better. I know I had to do something permanent that looks decent as well so here we go... ( I talked about this in another thread).

After some great advice in this forum I decided to tackle my acoustical issues myself, as I am pretty impatient and need immediated satisfaction!
I went to Lowes and bought a box of 12 Armstrong Contractor series ceiling panels. They only have one type that is made out of fiberglass with a white decorative textured film on the front. The box of 12 was $80 and each sheet is 24x48, which is exactly how wide the area is between my screen and side walls so no cutting for me. Since I did not want to turn this into a huge project (because then the wife usually gets suspicious!) I decided not to build any frames for these as the boards in themselves are rigid enough to have fabric stretched around them.
For each 24x48 finished panel you will need the following:
- 3 ceiling panels
- about 1 yard of "speaker cloth" bought at Han**** Fabrics
- spray adhesive ( DURO - i bought at lowes)

I started by removing the white plastic facing in order to have the fiberglass on both sides. It just pulls right off with no big effort. I sandwiched the 3 boards on top of one another, layed them on top of the black speaker cloth I had precut at the store, sprayed some adhesive on the fiberglass and folded the edges over and pulled everything nice and tight and voila! You do NOT need to glue the front of the panels, just put glue on the back so the speaker cloth has something to grab onto. It holds surprisingly well... Folding the corners is always a pain, but since my wall around my screen is black, it was not that much of an issue! Now, that they are mounted on the wall, they are pretty invisible!
I attached the panels to the wall left and right of the screen, and also in the 14" space below my screen, right behind my "Theater" center speaker. I just used a few finishing nails on the top and bottom of the panels to kind of squeeze the panels in place and that worked great for me.

All in all I spent $80 for the box of ceiling tiles, $20 for fabric, and $3 for glue. Also I had some panels left over that I ended up using in my furnace room that is right behind my theater, and also in the back of my equipment cabinet to soak up the sounds of the fan from my Cable Receiver, etc...


Result: Going in I was afraid that treating the walls behind the speakers would degrade sound of thes Dipolar speakers - not so. The sound is still crystal clear, but a TON more detailed and alot easier to understand. You do not have to turn up your system to be able to hear clear dialogue when watching movies. It simply feels like you are now listening to a huge wall of speakers, and the soundstage seems like it expands 10' beyond my speakers.

It took about 1.5 hours from start to finish and was well worth it. THis is probably the best bang for your buck cheap fix for a $100 you will ever be able to make in this crazy hobby / obsession of ours!

If you try to do this, good luck! It is very easy and offers great results for minimum expense!

gordon
 

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here are some more pictures of the glue I used, the back of a panel with the speaker cloth glued on, and the finished product! I straightened out the edges on top a bit so they look cleaner in real life.

Sorry for the low qual pics - I used my phone camera on my blackberry!
 

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Gordon, nice work!

Amazing how much difference it makes, right? ;)

Did you mount the panels straight on the wall?

If so, you might want to also try them offset from the wall by about 2 or 3”. Use some foam blocks squares to get a consistent offset.

By providing an air-gap, you will increase the effective absorption range down into the mid-bass (250 or 300Hz), that will also help with dipole rear-wave cancelation.
The result should be a bit more ‘punch’ in the upper mid-bass and lower midrange (250 to 800Hz).
 
Do you guys apply any sort of fire-retardant solution to the fabric before doing the work? Or is it deemed unnecessary ? The reason I ask is that in John Risch's tube trap design he specifically mentions a fire-retardant solution/spray, but without saying it is essential.
 
Do you guys apply any sort of fire-retardant solution to the fabric before doing the work? Or is it deemed unnecessary ? The reason I ask is that in John Risch's tube trap design he specifically mentions a fire-retardant solution/spray, but without saying it is essential.

Good Question... Not sure if that speaker cloth is fire retardant or not... Can it be sprayed on on a finished panel? Would like to know about this as well!

thanks
gordon
 
Usually speaker cloth is not fire retardant. Its a Double knit material. It actually melts slowly though. (I never burnt my hand with any HONEST!:eek:)

I know you can get the MAINE Burlap that is more retardant.
 
Usually speaker cloth is not fire retardant. Its a Double knit material. It actually melts slowly though. (I never burnt my hand with any HONEST!:eek:)

I know you can get the MAINE Burlap that is more retardant.

is there someting I can coat the speaker cloth with ?
 
Update

Do you guys apply any sort of fire-retardant solution to the fabric before doing the work? Or is it deemed unnecessary ? The reason I ask is that in John Risch's tube trap design he specifically mentions a fire-retardant solution/spray, but without saying it is essential.

I just re read the box and it said "Fire Retardant" on there! So I guess I am in luck!
 
This going to interesting around here with a third Gordon. I've always wondered what all Bills, Daves and Toms did when their name was called!

Anyway, Gordon, nice job! I've looked at those things a hundred times and thought of the same thing. The plastic texture always threw me for a loop and it would make a large mess.

Thanks for taking a shot at these!

Gordon
 
This going to interesting around here with a third Gordon. I've always wondered what all Bills, Daves and Toms did when their name was called!

Anyway, Gordon, nice job! I've looked at those things a hundred times and thought of the same thing. The plastic texture always threw me for a loop and it would make a large mess.

Thanks for taking a shot at these!

Gordon

Wow, I know - I saw the name gordon and got confused!
The plastic texture peels off extremely easily! A few bits of fiberglass will get stuck to the plastic but it is nothing much at all. The stuff is pretty easy to work with, and the nice thing is you can sandwich them together to make them any thickness you want!
 
I sandwiched the 3 boards on top of one another, layed them on top of the black speaker cloth I had precut at the store, sprayed some adhesive on the fiberglass and folded the edges over and pulled everything nice and tight and voila!

Gordon, great job! I want to try this project myself. You didn't glue the 3 panels together at all? Would one have to worry about them slipping around? Is the speaker cloth enough to hold the 3 pieces together? How much does one panel weigh if you had to guess?
 
No, I did not glue the panels together at all... They pretty much stick together very nicely and do not slip up or down at all! Good luck in building them - they are easy as cake to put together!
I did not weigh them but they maybe weigh 5 lbs or so put together.
let us know how it went!
 
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