Quantcast

What type of solder to use on panels?

MartinLogan Owners (MLO)

Help Support MartinLogan Owners (MLO):

K

ksrigg

Guest
As I have posted in the DIY section, I am building some new reQuest speakers from some old reQuest panels, some new 12 subwoofers, and a pair of reQuest crossovers. The main problem is the wires on one of the panels has come loose from the front and back of the stators. The center wire is still attached. I have scraped the area of the connection and attempted to solder using Kester "44" solder (I think that is the name), but can't make it stick. So do I need to use flux, or can someone give me instructions on how to make these connections please?

I plan on making the sub a powered sub, not using the crossover on the ML board, but :confused: using the crossover and external amps for the panels. The sub enclosure will be 3.25-3.5 cu. ft. and will be ported and tuned to 25 hz. I plan on using a 250 plate amp for each sub crossed at about 200 hz. I will be building cabinets and rails and everything else from scratch. I will attempt to take pictures and will show the process with before and after pictures. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated...
 

Tube60

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
489
Reaction score
0
Location
Chatsworth, Ca
I had to re-solder a Sequel stator wire, and I used standard 60/40 rosin core. Make sure you use a big iron for the job. I've got a 120 watt iron, and it had a hard time doing it. In fact it took two tries to get it right. Sounds like a winner regarding a bi-amping solution. That's going to work great. I was considering doing that with my Sequels, but so far I'm happy with the SPLs I'm reaching.
 

gregadd

Banned
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
232
Reaction score
0
Location
Uranus
see hpow to repair you own CLS panel in the DIY Section

Jim recommends 60/40 solder. I used some WBT silver content solder I had left over from upgrading my cables. It takes a lot of solder. It needs to be thin enough so it melts easy but not so thin it takes forever to get it on. Lay the panel flat as you can. With the help of a second person you can lay the edge on a table and not have to flatten the whole thing out.

HERE'S THE TRICKY PART. GET THE GUN HOT. YOU WANT TO HEAT THE STATOR. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET IT SO HOT THAT YOU BURN THE PAINT OR MELT THE FOAM OR MYLAR DIAPHRAM.
ONCE THE STATOR IS HOT COMPLETE THE SOLDER. YOU WANT TO GET A LOT OF SOLDER ON THE JOINT HOLD THE WIRE IN PLACE.COOL THE JOINT BY BLOWING ON IT. DON'T PUT ANY STRESS ON IT UNITL IT IS COMPLETELTY COOL.

GOOD LUCK:cool:
 
Last edited:

Bernard

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
4,446
Reaction score
4
Location
Ottawa, Canada
Jim recommends 60/40 solder. I used some WBT silver content solder
I have used WBT silver solder as well, and it works great.

BTW back in the days when I had Quad 57s, Quad used to specifythat when you do any soldering you ensure that the solder when set is nice and rounded, as any sharp edges (points, etc) would cause problems with electrostatic discharge. But I have not seen any such thing wrt Logans.
 

Tosh

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
616
Reaction score
1
Location
Silicon Valley
If your iron can't get hot enough, you may need a propane torch. But frankly I don't see how one can safely solder an assembled ESL without risking melting the diaphragm. (Flux is mostly helpful for surfaces that are oxidized or not totally clean.)
 
Top