Upgrade Renaissance ESL 15A feet, any advice?

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msimanyi

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You will need the Long Thread adapters. Your dealer knows what this means. They are longer to get through the amp section below the speaker. They are free, so don't pay for them. If your dealer isn't helpful, just contact Focal/Naim and they can send you the Long Thread adapters directly.
@ttocs Do you happen to recall the approximate length of the long thread adapters? My dealer sent the 3/8-16 adapters, but they’re only about 1 3/8” long overall, and the thread length that goes into the speaker is only 5/8” long.

That sure doesn’t sound like “long thread adapters” to me.
 

ttocs

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@ttocs Do you happen to recall the approximate length of the long thread adapters? My dealer sent the 3/8-16 adapters, but they’re only about 1 3/8” long overall, and the thread length that goes into the speaker is only 5/8” long.

That sure doesn’t sound like “long thread adapters” to me.
Yeah, that's too short. I was sent short ones first as well. The Long version is over 2" in length.

Here's a photo of the Long Thread Adapter and one that comes in the box with the GAIA II feet.
IMG_8652.jpeg
 
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Duke

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Can you spin out the 3/8 16 thread rod in the existing foot spike? If not, can you just use coupling nuts and get the length that you need? 3/8 16 is pretty common and each foot would have one coupling nut and two very short rods.

I have a question about the woofers. Are the two 12" woofers in an isobaric configuration? Does anyone know?
 

Duke

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1/4 20 is even more common thread.
Try Fastenal for something composed of higher quality metals (not sure, but I always go there first) or any hardware Lowes or Home Depot type store.
 

ttocs

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Can you spin out the 3/8 16 thread rod in the existing foot spike? If not, can you just use coupling nuts and get the length that you need? 3/8 16 is pretty common and each foot would have one coupling nut and two very short rods.

I have a question about the woofers. Are the two 12" woofers in an isobaric configuration? Does anyone know?
Using coupling nuts would add more length and raise the speaker higher, but yes, a coupler can be used. Keep in mind that the threaded stud is being threaded into a larger threaded stud which attaches the amplifier housing to the speaker bottom, so keeping everything tight and secure might be difficult. With the Long Thread Adapter from IsoAcoustics the fit is very secure, and they're free.

Here's what the spikes and footer threaded adapters get screwed into.
IMG_8659.jpeg

IMG_8660.jpeg


Re the question of isobaric, no. From ML: "By providing ample internal volume for the woofers (two sealed enclosures—one per woofer) along with powerful amplification, Masterpiece Series speakers with powered woofer systems are capable of reaching the lowest registers with authority while preserving bass detail."
Renaissance-Cut-away-Right-Side.jpg
 

msimanyi

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Can you spin out the 3/8 16 thread rod in the existing foot spike? If not, can you just use coupling nuts and get the length that you need? 3/8 16 is pretty common and each foot would have one coupling nut and two very short rods.

I have a question about the woofers. Are the two 12" woofers in an isobaric configuration? Does anyone know?
Well first, my 15As haven't arrived yet. Shawn just received notice that a pair is shipping and he's finding out if they're mine.

So I can't answer anything about the existing foot spike.

As ttocs mentioned, Isoacoustics makes these available for free. My vendor didn't have the Long Thread Adapters and shipped what they had, but they've now placed an order to be drop-shipped to me. They'll likely arrive before the speakers, but worst case I'll just use the factory feet for a few days.
 

msimanyi

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I finally brought in my 15As from the garage. They were delivered a couple weeks ago, but I've been too busy to get into setting them up.

They're now inside and in the system. I initially started with the long threads, but those literally bottomed out in the threaded body to get them roughly at the height I wanted. I checked the "regular" version, and decided to go with those. The overall height is probably only about 1/8" lower, but I still have easy access to get my vacuum beneath the speakers.

Using the short threads, I still have four full rotations of engagement on the upper threads. That should be secure, in my experience, especially with the locknuts engaged.

Is there a reason people recommend the long threads? Perhaps I'm not fully understanding the issue.



As an aside... wow! The 15As aren't remotely close to broken in. They aren't properly positioned - just roughly for now. ARC hasn't been run. The speakers are both incredibly smooth and relaxed, while being exceedingly detailed. Drums, cymbals, upright bass, voices... nothing seems to phase them. I'm quite happy so far, with many thanks to Shawn at DaVinci for helping make the purchase happen smoothly.
 

Big Dog RJ

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Very nice msimanyi. Now you're at the elite level! The Ren 15A's are a formidable hybrid stat. Once you experience this level, looking at Neoliths really makes no sense. Both of these systems require a large room, and for the bass to propel itself smoothly and freely, these need ample room to breathe. I think the Neoliths are suited for a different set of clientele...

My first experience with the Ren15a's were driven with a CJ top of line ART150. On my second audition it was the Pass Labs XA160.8's. That was something else! Absolutely superb! These now retail down unda for 50grand, so it's right up there.

Re. To the ARC calibration software, what I learned is that it doesn't take into account furnishings, and fixtures that are part of the room. It only measures and corrects for certain types of room dimensions, and applies the software to correct room modes etc., by following the sequence settings.

As a final adjustment, you would need to fine tune yourself, either by your golden ears or use a second person to adjust LF controls whiles you're assessing the sound from your seating position. I found this to be more accurate / natural than ARC itself. (The wifey helped me out when I was adjusting the BF210 with the CLX's.)

Also, once you pass the 50 to 100hr mark of proper run-in then you need to make finer adjustments again. The Ren15a's bass drivers takes a while to really open up including the stat panels, which is quite a large surface area. Most owners who I've been in touch with, said around the 100hr mark was pretty much it. So take your time and have fun with it, most probably 3 - 4 months... and the performance will really take off!

Cheers mate, and enjoy those fine tunes!
Woof! RJ
 

ttocs

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Is there a reason people recommend the long threads? Perhaps I'm not fully understanding the issue.
Yes, the Long Thread adapters give adjustability for tilt. The short ones are pretty much stuck at short.

It's great that the 15A sounds so good early on! The same happened for me with the exception of some sounds which sounded "shrieky" or "squeally" and "piercing". That all smoothed out by 130 hours.

I used fairly high volume for break-in. At first just about 75-80dB, but then 90dB for the balance of it. At lower volume it would take longer for break-in. I also played a variety of music genres.
 

msimanyi

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Thank you @ttocs. Since they're intended to operate vertically, I'm fine without adding any tilt. Edit: though I'd understand wanting that flexibility for the 11A, 13A, etc.

I would love to break them in *fast*... but the dog probably wouldn't appreciate it very much! I run it when I'm home and let Roon mix up all the music. Sometimes it's playing Mozart, sometimes Leonard Cohen, sometimes Rudimental...
 

ttocs

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Thank you @ttocs. Since they're intended to operate vertically, I'm fine without adding any tilt. Edit: though I'd understand wanting that flexibility for the 11A, 13A, etc.

I would love to break them in *fast*... but the dog probably wouldn't appreciate it very much! I run it when I'm home and let Roon mix up all the music. Sometimes it's playing Mozart, sometimes Leonard Cohen, sometimes Rudimental...
I totally forgot that the 15A is vertical !!!
duh.

So I guess it would be the reverse from us with the 11A and 13A who may want less tilt from stock vs adding tilt in the 15A. From memory, mine are about 2-1/2º back from vertical. When I got the GAIA footers I simply made the tilt the same as I had it with the spikes. Maybe I'll play with trying more vertical, which is something I couldn't do with the spikes being that they were getting close to end of threads on the rear two.
 
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