SL3: Woofer Replacement, Panel Repair, and RoadKill Damping Tweak

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tday02

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Woofer

So recently I blew a woofer. I took them apart and replaced both drivers with ML recommended Scanspeak Discovery 26W/4534G

This means I have one original SL3 driver. If anyone needs one, PM me and make an offer.

RoadKill Damping Tweak
While I had everything apart, I decided to try Gordon Gray's RoadKill damping tweak. I covered all interior parts of the enclosure (except the back where the cross-overs are) with RoadKill car audio sound damping. I then did an A/B test. Two speakers side by side, both playing the left hand channel, not on spikes. Tested with Dead Can Dance: Aeon, and Prince Far I: Cry Tuff Dub Encounter Volume 3. First just listened to the bass driver, then the whole speaker. With dub reggae there was an immediate and obvious difference. The bass notes were much more defined and less muffled. With the Dead Can Dance, the effect was more subtle.

RoadKill.jpg

I have slightly over half the road-kill left, enough for a pair of SL3s. If anyone would like it I will sell for $45 OBO + shipping (PM me).

Panel Repair
One of my panels had been sounding a little quiet and muddy. When I took them off to shower them, I noticed that the red bias wire (sandwiched between the panels) was almost completely out (probably because of panel slippage). Below is the repair instructions from ML. Note that I did not have to re-solder the wires or open the corner as much as shown in the photographs provided by ML. It was obvious where the rail was as it is copper, not graphite.

Hello Tony,

Thank you for your email. I don’t see anything attached however, I think I understand the issue.

If the inside wire has sheared off (or more likely this has slipped out from between the metal stators) it may be possible to get this wire back into the panel. I have had a few customers who have reported good results from trying this. Since the only other option is replacing the stat panel, you really have little to lose by trying this.

1. Remove the stat assembly from the frame.
2. Use a small pry tool to carefully separate the corner of the panel where the outside two wires are soldered. Work slowly and carefully, taking care that we are not in danger of tearing the mylar. Only open this corner a small amount. We don’t want to take the top stator off, we only need a small amount of room to slip the wire inside.
3. You should be able to see a copper or graphite bias strip as shown in the “highly technical” drawing provided. Try to position the stripped end of the wire ( about ½”) on top of the bias strip. You don’t need to “wrap” this as this is nearly impossible.
4. Carefully put the stat back together and re-solder the “outside” wires.

You should be able to find weather stripping at most hardware or home stores.

Best of Luck with your Project,
Scott

View attachment [email protected]_20130530_112827.pdfBias Strip.jpgStat Pry Apart.jpgView attachment Panel Soldering Guidelines 1.pdf
Note that there are a couple of PDFs above that do not display.

Next tweak, an active cross-over!
 

HG5150

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I am interested in buying the woofer if you still have it.

Woofer

So recently I blew a woofer. I took them apart and replaced both drivers with ML recommended Scanspeak Discovery 26W/4534G

This means I have one original SL3 driver. If anyone needs one, PM me and make an offer.

RoadKill Damping Tweak
While I had everything apart, I decided to try Gordon Gray's RoadKill damping tweak. I covered all interior parts of the enclosure (except the back where the cross-overs are) with RoadKill car audio sound damping. I then did an A/B test. Two speakers side by side, both playing the left hand channel, not on spikes. Tested with Dead Can Dance: Aeon, and Prince Far I: Cry Tuff Dub Encounter Volume 3. First just listened to the bass driver, then the whole speaker. With dub reggae there was an immediate and obvious difference. The bass notes were much more defined and less muffled. With the Dead Can Dance, the effect was more subtle.

View attachment 17595

I have slightly over half the road-kill left, enough for a pair of SL3s. If anyone would like it I will sell for $45 OBO + shipping (PM me).

Panel Repair
One of my panels had been sounding a little quiet and muddy. When I took them off to shower them, I noticed that the red bias wire (sandwiched between the panels) was almost completely out (probably because of panel slippage). Below is the repair instructions from ML. Note that I did not have to re-solder the wires or open the corner as much as shown in the photographs provided by ML. It was obvious where the rail was as it is copper, not graphite.



Note that there are a couple of PDFs above that do not display.

Next tweak, an active cross-over!
 

HG5150

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Thanks for the sale! The SL3 woofer arrived in excellent condition and is operational.
 

Mirolab

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Old thread... but does anyone have experience with changing the SL3 original woofers to the Scanspeak Discovery 26W/4534G drivers?
These are aluminum cone, vs. the original paper/fiber cones.
I am doing some upgrades on my SL3's..
My stock woofers are working fine, but wondering if the ScanSpeaks are a clear upgrade, or just a bit different.
 

JohnA

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Thanks for bumping the thread.
These Scanspeak woofers are available in the UK apparently, good to know!
 

Tosh

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Old thread... but does anyone have experience with changing the SL3 original woofers to the Scanspeak Discovery 26W/4534G drivers?
These are aluminum cone, vs. the original paper/fiber cones.
I am doing some upgrades on my SL3's..
My stock woofers are working fine, but wondering if the ScanSpeaks are a clear upgrade, or just a bit different.
If you have Vifa woofers in your SL3 then these Scanspeak will fit P&P. But if you have earlier SL3 with the Eminence stamped steel basket woofer, then the counterbore is too small.
But while the bass xo remains passive, there is not much improvement in the bass from changing woofer. Now, with an ACTIVE xo in the bass there is ear-popping tuneful low clean bass even from the original woofer....
 
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