Recoating panels

[02GF74]

Apologies for posting on this topic, I'm sure it has been done to death but the way I like to work is to ask specific questions rather than trawl through articles that may or may not answer my questions. Obviously links to with relevant information are most appreciated.

Due to my Aerius I speakers being contaminated by pigeon crap, not a lot but I fear the dirt may be bridging the mylar and metal grille which may damage them, I am about to embark on washing them followed by recoating - they have lost about 2 KHz compared to other speakers.

Last time I washed them, the insulator strips along the edges were starting to come apart, I reckon this time I may be able to separate the front grille. I know this can be done by carefully cutting through the strips.

Let's assume I have done that, do I need to remove the old coating, if so, what is the best method?

To recoat, I have seen Licron Crystal ESD spray recommended (I have seen it available in a spray can). Is this good to use or is there something better?

Regarding applying the coating, do I spray over the entire front panel or are there areas that should not be sprayed? In the latter case, how best to mask of those areas, I do not want to use masking tape if there is risk of ripping the mylar. Also is the thickness and evenes critical, I have not used this before but I am guessing once the entire surface is shiny and wet, then that should be enough. Is there a way to tell/test which areas are not covered or covered with too much coating?

If I cannot stick together the front grille, what is the specification of the self adhesive strip (thickness, width) and where can I buy it?

Any other info, appreciated.

 

[Tosh]

If you don't get answers here, try asking your questions on diyaudio.com in the 'planars and exotics' section:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-and-exotics/

 

[02GF74]

Hmmmm, I don't think removing the front grille (stator) is going to be that simple - there appear to be horizontal spars that are in effect strips of double sided sticky tape, I cannot see that it is possible to separate the front grille without ripping the mylar due to these spars.

 

[JonFo]

It's pretty simple, forget this idea. You'll never re-asemble it right, as it takes a specialized jig to stretch the mylar. That and the glues will rip everything up.

I've disassembled several panels (see my side-wall decor for how they were used) and they were a royal bear to take apart. Can't imagine trying to do do it 'gently' and have anything usable left.

Just wash/shower your panels (carefully), let them dry well and put them back. Do clamp the sides as well as possible during the shower process, so they don't separate further.

 

[neil5m]

Hi 02GF74, it isn't difficult to do, just time consuming. See my post on repanelling my ML Clarity's.
http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?16544-Repanelling-ML-Clarity-s

Separate the panels using ethyl alcohol 100%. Constantly soak the double sided tape with tissue and push a butter knife between the tape and front stator. This will reduce your chance of damaging the mylar which is on the back stator. Use several blunt butter knives. Push them in hard to stretch the tape and slightly lever. Don't lever too much or physically pull the stators apart too hard as they may bend in the middle (longitudinally) and ruin the shape. Be very patient and don't get frustrated. I used my thumb to "roll" the double sided tape off the stators once they were separated. Use alcohol along the spars too to loosen the clear tape there. For the rest, just go through my post

Regarding the Licron Crystal spray, i've read that two passes over the area should be fine. I'm about to recoat my Clarity's yet again and managed to get my hands on Licron Crystal. I'll post once when I start doing it. The smart thing (in hindsight) I did was not to double-side tape the entire panel together when I repanelled and recoated the last time. I only stuck the corners and a little in the middle, so it will be easy to separate them this time.

Don't use masking tape to mask off the areas. Instead, just use Scotch Magic Tape or Removable tape - used for craft. It barely sticks and you can remove it immediately after spraying. I'll post pictures once I do mine.

In case you tear your Mylar, well thats just more work. I've put an unedited video on Youtube on stretching the Mylar. Its rudimentary but worked well for me.

 

[02GF74]

thanks for replies - for various reasons, not got any further with this - but await to see your (neil5m) recoating effort.

 

[neil5m]

Hi 02GF74, i've completed the recoat and my speakers sound great! see my post in the DIY section link: Repanelling ML Clarity's

http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?16544-Repanelling-ML-Clarity-s/page3

The Licron Crystal is good. I used the spraycan but encountered issues with it being runny. Get a small quantity of the licron crystal which does not come in a can or get the spraycan and spray it into a cup, then use a foam brush and brush it on in one or two passes.