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BDH55

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Here's the latest on my P20 issue... those that have followed this will remember that the last recommendation from PS Audio support was to block the IR port with some electrical tape. Well, it's now been four months and I have not had my P20 lockup once. Of course, I also haven't had remote control use either. I checked back with them to see what I should do next (unit is still under warranty), and was told that I could either remove the tape and just deal with climbing behind my rack and doing a hard reset every time it locks up, OR I could leave the tape in place and just not use my remote. Neither option is a very good option, especially on this class of equipment. Not happy...
 

BDH55

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PS Audio finally came up with a solution that I would have never expected...

I received a message from the man himself, Paul McGowan! He was apologetic about the situation we are both stuck in, and fully agreed that I shouldn't have to disable the remote (or reset the unit) to be able to use the P20 in my environment. He also explained the challenges they had in trying to duplicate my problem and resolve it. One of my big questions was how I could also have a P12 located near my P20, and the P12 has worked flawlessly. He explained that the coding is significantly different between the two units so they could not 'just suss out' the differences.

His solution... he offered me a FULL REFUND!!! o_O What company does that??? :unsure:

So now the ball is back in my court. The way I see it, I can either ship my P20 back to them, and come up with another solution for my power conditioning/management, OR... I guess I can just live with the frustration of either no remote, or using my remote and having to go behind my rack to reset it.

For those of you that are now wondering why I would even consider holding on to my P20... two reasons. First, when I installed it and brought my system back up, I really can't think of any other single hardware change we've made that has had as dramatic an impact on our sound. Second, in starting to look at my options, I'm kind of limited as I need a device to hang off a 20A service, and deliver power to a dozen outlets. Also, while I could move to a couple of eight outlet boxes, I want to try to avoid having to re-wire my power cables.

I thought this was a very generous offer out of PS Audio, and I'm going to just have to work thru my options. Thx Paul... it's good to be a part of your 'Hi-Fi Family'... (y)
 

msimanyi

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That P20 has an ethernet port on the back. Is it able to respond to an aftermarket remote that sends commands via ethernet?

Edit: I'm guessing no, but thought it might stoke some creative thoughts...
 
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spkrdctr

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Since the power going to your P20 doesn't matter. Could you put in a heavy duty 20 amp power strip or something with a switch on it? You could put the switch somewhere hidden but easy to get to? Flipping a switch to fix the problem is MUCH better than back breaking work. I'm just thinking of giving you an EASY fix that you can be happy with long term. Those power supplies are very nice and do what they are supposed to do. Think about something like what I'm suggesting. That way you get to use the remote and switch power on and off to the unit very easily.
 

IEnjoyOLED

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My LG TV needs a hard reboot every now and then and it’s a real PITA to reach since it’s a wall mounted TV in our bedroom. I installed a Kasa smart outlet and now can do it from my phone.

There are stronger devices available controlled by SmartThings or Lutron that might fit your needs.
 

Stefan_DR3

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So they still think it’s a rogue IR command that’s causing the crash? I know you’ve had a good few months run with the IR blocked but I am not convinced yet. You could uncover it now and see if it happens again, but pay close attention every time you use another remote and check if the P20 locks up. You might eventually be able to reproduce the problem on demand and send them the exact remote code.

You could also ship it back for a replacement unit (maybe with the culprit remote control) now that they’ve admitted the problem and won’t say “no fault found”.

By the way how many watts are you actually pulling from it? Maybe a P15 is good enough.
 

BDH55

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That P20 has an ethernet port on the back. Is it able to respond to an aftermarket remote that sends commands via ethernet?

Edit: I'm guessing no, but thought it might stoke some creative thoughts...
I can shut it completely down, or power off individual zones thru their PowerPlay web app. Although, one thing I never looked at was whether once it is locked up, if it responds to their app. If that does work, I could just log in with my iPad and take care of it. (y)

Since the power going to your P20 doesn't matter. Could you put in a heavy duty 20 amp power strip or something with a switch on it? You could put the switch somewhere hidden but easy to get to? Flipping a switch to fix the problem is MUCH better than back breaking work. I'm just thinking of giving you an EASY fix that you can be happy with long term. Those power supplies are very nice and do what they are supposed to do. Think about something like what I'm suggesting. That way you get to use the remote and switch power on and off to the unit very easily.
That's an interesting suggestion. Since my P20 is sitting on a mostly dedicated 20A circuit (there is a power strip with wall warts for things like the remote, the cable box, etc), so I guess I could just flip the breaker off/on. I don't see why this wouldn't work, but I guess I'll need to let it lock up again, then give it a try...

So they still think it’s a rogue IR command that’s causing the crash? I know you’ve had a good few months run with the IR blocked but I am not convinced yet. You could uncover it now and see if it happens again, but pay close attention every time you use another remote and check if the P20 locks up. You might eventually be able to reproduce the problem on demand and send them the exact remote code.

You could also ship it back for a replacement unit (maybe with the culprit remote control) now that they’ve admitted the problem and won’t say “no fault found”.

By the way how many watts are you actually pulling from it? Maybe a P15 is good enough.
I think I will go ahead and uncover the IR port as I need to try resetting thru PowerPlay, or flipping the breaker next time it locks up to see if either resets the unit the way I would expect it to. Trying to find an offending remote will be more of a challenge as usually things are working fine, I turn things off for the night, and the next time I go to use the system, either it is working fine or it is locked up. IOW, I think every time it has locked up, it has been at night when no one is touching any remotes...

If I ship my P20 back to Boulder, I don't see it coming back to me. Either I'll have them refund my cash, or send me either a pair of P12's, or a P15 (but it doesn't have enough outlets). I haven't looked at power draw on my P20 for some time but I have no doubt a P15 would easily handle it as most of the components running off it are sources, with the exception of my surround amps, and one of my REL 212/SE subs.

I still hate having to use work arounds on this class of equipment, but at least they give me another option to climbing behind my rack... OR, to having to ship my P20 half way across the Country, and depending on what I would put in to replace it, doing a bunch of rewiring...
 

spkrdctr

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I can shut it completely down, or power off individual zones thru their PowerPlay web app. Although, one thing I never looked at was whether once it is locked up, if it responds to their app. If that does work, I could just log in with my iPad and take care of it. (y)


That's an interesting suggestion. Since my P20 is sitting on a mostly dedicated 20A circuit (there is a power strip with wall warts for things like the remote, the cable box, etc), so I guess I could just flip the breaker off/on. I don't see why this wouldn't work, but I guess I'll need to let it lock up again, then give it a try...


I think I will go ahead and uncover the IR port as I need to try resetting thru PowerPlay, or flipping the breaker next time it locks up to see if either resets the unit the way I would expect it to. Trying to find an offending remote will be more of a challenge as usually things are working fine, I turn things off for the night, and the next time I go to use the system, either it is working fine or it is locked up. IOW, I think every time it has locked up, it has been at night when no one is touching any remotes...

If I ship my P20 back to Boulder, I don't see it coming back to me. Either I'll have them refund my cash, or send me either a pair of P12's, or a P15 (but it doesn't have enough outlets). I haven't looked at power draw on my P20 for some time but I have no doubt a P15 would easily handle it as most of the components running off it are sources, with the exception of my surround amps, and one of my REL 212/SE subs.

I still hate having to use work arounds on this class of equipment, but at least they give me another option to climbing behind my rack... OR, to having to ship my P20 half way across the Country, and depending on what I would put in to replace it, doing a bunch of rewiring...
Well, it IS a very difficult problem. Intermittent issues are very hard to fix as they will not stay broken long enough for PS Audio to remote the problem. You now have a couple of fantastic quick work arounds and as a last resort you can always get another one. The piece of equipment itself is a very nice power plant. You didn't skimp on what you bought. Also, it is delivering very clean power to your system. :) I hope you find happy ground with it.
 
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