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Before (ML Odyssey) and after ML (CLX Art) system photos

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Paul172

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Here is my system. 2 channel and Atmos theater wrapped into one. Started with the Odyssey’s then I found an amazing deal on these CLX’s!

2 channel consist of PS Audio DirectStream DSD Dac which is also working as a preamp until I get my BHK Preamp in the mix. PS Audio M700 mono amplifiers,Audioquest Niagara power conditioner, and 2 JL Audio Fathom F113’s. Source components other than DirectStream is a Oppo 203 with oppomods.com installed.

Home Theater adds ML Stage X, Proceed Amp Denon Processor, Definitive Surrounds.

Room treated with GIK Acoustics and Audioquest used for system cables.
 

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Robert D

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Ive never tried putting my components in a cabinet with doors. Does the remote work ok through the glass, and do you have trouble with any of the devices getting too hot in there? What I have used is always open in the front and back. I think the glass doors look nice though.
 

Paul172

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Ive never tried putting my components in a cabinet with doors. Does the remote work ok through the glass, and do you have trouble with any of the devices getting too hot in there? What I have used is always open in the front and back. I think the glass doors look nice though.
The back is open and the system is in a basement where the warmest it gets is about 68 degrees. The doors are perforated metal and the two channel amps are class D so they don’t get that warm. (Tho I will be moving them out soon to behind the speakers.)No issues with remotes. My harmony remote has the ir blaster so that helps a lot. The regular remotes have no issues transmitting thru the doors when needed. Thanks!
 

JLasher22443

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Very Nice! How do you like the Harmony? Does it work well with everything? You will love the BHK by the way.
 

Paul172

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Very Nice! How do you like the Harmony? Does it work well with everything? You will love the BHK by the way.
The Harmony works good. It seems like Logitech has gotten away from computer updating and the remote updates thru a tablet or smartphone. It works great with the extra IR emitters I couldn't find commands for the direct stream DAC so I had to manually plug those commands in. Yes, Im looking forward to the BHK! thank you
 

JonFo

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Nice system, congrats on scoring the CLXs, awesome speakers.

Do explore alternate locations for the subs, as rarely does an alignment like depicted result in best response.

With two subs, one (ideally, centered) on the front wall, and the other (ideally, centered) on the back wall, can eliminate many more room modes. Denon/Marantz models with SubHT abilities can correctly adjust volume & delay for two subs (they are EQ's as one).
 

Paul172

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Nice system, congrats on scoring the CLXs, awesome speakers.

Do explore alternate locations for the subs, as rarely does an alignment like depicted result in best response.

With two subs, one (ideally, centered) on the front wall, and the other (ideally, centered) on the back wall, can eliminate many more room modes. Denon/Marantz models with SubHT abilities can correctly adjust volume & delay for two subs (they are EQ's as one).
Thanks. I have considered moving the subs tho the system is in a acoustic treated unfinished basement, I know I have my priorities backwards. When using the CR-1 in the system I’ll be utilizing the dual system feature. One for 2 channel and one for home theater I need 4 subwoofer cables so moving the subs long distance can be very costly when using high end cables.
 

JonFo

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When using the CR-1 in the system I’ll be utilizing the dual system feature
Ah, if using a crossover without the ability to apply delays, then you are stuck with keeping both subs near the L/R.

If placing subs far away from each other, one must use appropriate time-delay and gain adjustments (and often, per-device EQ) for best results.
I spend over an hour on time-alignment adjustments between subs, as fractions of a millisecond yield measurable changes.
 

Dan F.

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Have you gone through the process of "finding the null point" between sub and main? You play one side only and reverse polarity of either main (played full range) or sub (low pass crossed over at target frequency (I'm using 50hz with my CLX and JL Audio e110s), play the (in this case) 50hz test tone, adjust volume on the sub so both sub and main sound like same volume. Then adjust the sub variable phase with your head between sub and main until you find the point at which the bass volume is the least (the null point). Then, you switch the polarity back to normal on whichever speaker you changed (I use the sub's polarity switch). Then do the same process on the other side. The subs' volume may need some further tweaking from there, but this process should solve the timing issue. At least this is my understanding from JL and the Soundoctor.
 

roberto

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Hola Paul,

In this video are tricks that helps a lot the quality of the bass. I do know that you know how to hook them up. This video was made by my dear friend Peter Soderberg. He has big knowledge about it.

Happy listening!
 

Paul172

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Have you gone through the process of "finding the null point" between sub and main? You play one side only and reverse polarity of either main (played full range) or sub (low pass crossed over at target frequency (I'm using 50hz with my CLX and JL Audio e110s), play the (in this case) 50hz test tone, adjust volume on the sub so both sub and main sound like same volume. Then adjust the sub variable phase with your head between sub and main until you find the point at which the bass volume is the least (the null point). Then, you switch the polarity back to normal on whichever speaker you changed (I use the sub's polarity switch). Then do the same process on the other side. The subs' volume may need some further tweaking from there, but this process should solve the timing issue. At least this is my understanding from JL and the Soundoctor.
Hello,

Yes. I’ve followed the JL Audio set up for phase and volume. I also had a long talk with Randy one of JL Audio’s engineers and he encouraged me to add a JL Audio CR-1 and read the sound doctors white paper. If you ever have time give Randy at JL a call he’s quite the audiophile and full of info!
 

Dan F.

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Yes, Randy and I are well acquainted at this point - he's great to work with. His vote is to high pass the mains, but so far I'm liking the low pass only approach at 50hz for my CLX. My integrated amp only has one option for high pass (80hz), so I may try that as well to see which I prefer.
 
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