Front wall sound treatment?

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SugarMedia said:
Ummm... I don't think rear reflection is the problem either. It ssems to come from the front wall, the corners and the sides. Again i do have a clipped wall on my left which leads outdoors.

I get a little confused when you all speak about flatening certain frequencies as I have no idea where and how much should be corrected. I think I need to get soemthing to measure it and post my findings and go from there. Maybe.
You can use all the science you want, it's still an art in the end.

Finding a frequency reverberation problem in a rooms acoustics is like finding a sweek or rattle in a car. Sometimes you are very suprised where it's coming from and what it was.
 
Acoustic Paneling

Regardless of what it's called, if it's OC 703/705 fiberglass then it's good for room acoustics. Most of the specialty stuff is either fiberglass or foam. All they do is wrap it in something pretty and upcharge it by eleventy billion dollars.
 
acoustic panels

For DIY acoustic material such Owens Corning 703 and 705 check out

www.acoustimac.com

They cary a good selection and ship to anywhere in the US.
 
Sugermedia,

Thanks for the pictures of the dyi panels. The crown molding looks great. I plan on making my own panels and will incorporate the crown molding on them. Just showed my wife and she loves them , high WAF factor.

Regarding fabric, I have read that burlap is best if you don't have access to the gilford fabric and that just picking out any fabric in a material store doesn't cut it since you should be able to blow through it and feel your breath on the other side. Any truth to that. I realize that thick material won't do , but assumed a very thin fabric would do. I don't really like the look of the burlap fabric.Any ideas or suggestions on the material.

Getting back to the original dicussion, I would definately move the cd rack from behind the speaker perhaps to the side wall behind the 1st and 2nd reflection points. This is where I am considering mounting mine in my new dedicated room. I have the wall mounted cd racks from Ikea.

Sugarmedia, I would think a curtin of velvet material with a backing on it would be good over that window. I have this in the living room wher the stero is now on a lage window which did the trick. It also make a difference if you can gave more pleats in the curtin. What , I am getting at here is if you have a 5 ft window, have 10 ft of material so you get more pockets in it.
 
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You can use all the science you want, it's still an art in the end.

Finding a frequency reverberation problem in a rooms acoustics is like finding a sweek or rattle in a car. Sometimes you are very suprised where it's coming from and what it was.

Ain't that the truth.
One simple thing that SugarMedia can do is place the speakers out from the front wall asemetricaly, (the) one speaker further out at least the depth of the CD rack difference.
Another solution regarding homemade panels is to back thin(er) layer(s) of the f/glass material with a semi absorbtive/reflective material. My 3-1/2" home made bass traps have a layer of thin cork roll in their centers. I believe that if the cork were placed behind the first inch in said panel there would be different absobtion/reflection characteristics for each of the two faces of the panel, giving greater flexibility in placement and purpose.
 
I made my own sound aborbers yesterday. I made 6 of them at a cost of $35 each. I went to the material store looking for a material that would let the sound pass through. They had a roll of black speaker grill cloth, the same as on the bottom of my Odessey woofer sections.

I used 1x4 mdf for the frames and then covered the back with a board with the holes already in it and it was already 2x4. This board is the type you would have on your garge wall for haning tools on, clips go into the holes to hold the tools. They already have it in the 2x4 size at Home Depot.

Construction is simple. Cut 2 peices of the mdf 1x4 at 48 inch lenghts. These are your side peices. Cut 2 more mdf peices at 22 7/8. The 22 7/8 peices go on the inside of the 48 inch peices at the top and bottom. Brad nail the frame together. Now , place the 2x4 sheet on the back and just straighten your frame so it fits perfect. Brad nail this to the frame. Now you have your frame box complete. I used Roxal flexibatt for the absorbing material. A chap I know who works in studio's said this is what they eued for their panels. You can buy it at any Home Depot store. Next step is to put on the speaker grill cloth.

It comes in a 60 inches wide. I useda meter per frame. Cut it at 39 inches. You will have a peice 39 by 60 inches. Lay that on a table and place the frame onto it with the open board on the back of the fram facing up.Pull the material over the one side and staple it every 4 inches , but stop stapling about 6 inches away from each end. This makes it easier to do the top and bottom .Stand the frame upand pull the material taught over the frame and staple the other side. Now do each end. I did this so when the material is folded over at the corner the material is straight with the corner of the frame. It's kind of like wrapping a Christmas present. I have to tell you these absorbers turned out great and look identical to echo busters etc.

I put them in a spare bedroom for now as my dedicated room isn't finished yet. I did an experiment clapping my hands at the ceiling level and moved down towards the floor. You could hear the slap echo reducing in loudness as the lower I went . When my hands reached the height of the panels, the echo dissappered completely. One thing is critical in making these. That is to get material you can blow through and feel your breath on the other side. The speaker grill covering passes the test.

I tried a mock up of the crown molding against the mdf frame material in the depot and thought it was a bit much and that the cloth wrapped around would give a cleaner look.Just thought I would pass this on in case anyone wants to try it out.

You could make these panels also out of the 5 1/2 flexibatt and wider mdf for the frames if you wished. You could also use metal L brackets on the inside of the frame to keep it square and go without the board on the back keeping the frame off the wall by 2 to 4 inches for better bass absorbtion.

Cheers
 
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