40 Hours In and Still Getting Better

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karma

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HI All,
In previous posts I expressed trepidation concerning replacing the aging but perfectly good panels on my CLS IIA's. Mostly, you all encouraged me to make the change. So, I expressed the best demonstration of intelligence and followed the offered advice.

I had some logistical problems with ML. They first shipped me panels for the Monolith III's. They were out of stock on CLS panels and I had to wait while they made some. In the meantime, I ordered a pair of the sensing power supplies that were used in the IIZ's.

While still waiting for the panels, the power supplies arrived and were duly installed. One didn't work right. ML was very prompt getting me a replacement and paying for return shipping.

All in all, even though there were several difficulties with this transaction, ML's customer service really came through making the problems good quickly.

Within a week all the parts were here and I installed everything last Sat. I was very worried about the panel installation. But, knowing that many here had done the job with fine results, encouraged me to get busy.

Well, I'm here to report that it really is easy. So, you panel rookies like me, can be assured you can do the job. I did the job alone with only the sub-standard help offered by my parrot.

The power supplies were also easy but there are more nuts and bolts involved than with the panel replacement.

I had decided to run the speakers in while I'm at work during the day when the house is empty. Rather than waste my expensive vacuum tubes on such a menial task, I hooked up a "brake-in" system. It consists of a Yamaha tuner with a volume control driving an Accoustat TNT-200 power amp. While ultimate sound quality for the brake-in system is not very important, it actually sounds quite good. The tuner also allows an Aux. source to be selected so I can hook up my DAC and enjoy CD's. Works good.

I am trying to learn something from the brake-in experience. To help with this I maintain a log with a running total of time of use. I am also keeping a brake-in diary. Right now I have just passed the 44 hour mark.

Very briefly, the CLS's are used in the system noted in my signature. Consequently, they are used bi-amped and are crossed over to a separately powered subwoofer. During brake-in the speakers are being used full range except when they are hooked up to my main system.

Here's what I have heard so far when connected to my main system:

* Initially: very bright and crisp treble. Felt like all sounds had sharp edges just waiting to jump out and bite me. Image very forward and I felt the over all image was optically distorted, so to speak. Upper mid-range is strident.

* After 10 hours: Treble still bright but mellowing a little. Image is backing away from me. Still noticing the optical-like distortion-it’s as if the image is focusing at different parts of the sound stage at different times. It’s hard to describe but it gives the presentation a slight looking through water effect. Resolution and speed are excellent.

* After 20 hours: The mellow trend continues and now I can hear resolution of details in the loud mid-range sounds. Stage continues to move rearward. The image seems to be coming into coherence.

* After 40 hours: Still mellowing to the point where it actually sounds good. Image distortion gone! Imaging really well. Still a bit bright. If the trends continue, the direction is good and bodes well for some very nice sounding speakers.

I'm planning on 100 hours of logged brake-in time. Then we will see where we are.

Sparky
 
How do you extract the pannel from the frame or do you get new frames as well?

What cross-over point do you use? I am using 125 Hz. I get huge dynamics at that point with very good sub/pannel integration.
 
HI jj,
The panels, the black screens, must be removed from the frame. New panels will just snap into place with a slap of the hand.

Removal is easier than me describing it. Basically, you force the panel out of the mounting groove. Do it on each end, then lift the other side free. Jim Power suggested that the speaker be laid on its side to do the removal. I agree. That's how I did it.

I use a much lower crossover point. The reasons for doing so are more complicated than I want to go into here. Your high crossover frequency probably gives you a dynamic range advantage. Mine gives me other advantages.

Sparky
 

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