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Thread: New CLS Frames

  1. #31
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    This is the first time I assembled the frame with and without the panels.

    Without panels I was deciding whether to use wood (larger) or steel. The wood was to large even though the steel fabrication was more involved
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  2. #32
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Now comes one of my weaknesses welding or as I like to call it melting metal to one another.



    I made a jig to hold pieces somewhere near the same 4 times. They came out closer than I had thought they would.

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    This was probably my best weld after it was ground. Needless to say the welds were so ugly I could not bring my self to photograph one of them.

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    Every one of us old car repair guys closest friend Bondo.

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    It is amazing what some body filler, sand paper and primer can do.
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  3. #33
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Yes I did CAP, I figured you would recognize that flat appearance.

    Here I sprayed Aniline dye on first.


    You can see the dado cut in the piece with the curve the went in the middle. The dado held the top of the bottom non active panel since it was a cut edge.

    On the tall frame rail you can see the dado for the middle rail and the dado that ran the length of it to hold the panels.
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  4. #34
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    OK last one.

    After the Aniline was sprayed I sprayed 2 coats of sanding sealer This seals the pours of the wood and the dye and provides a material that is easy to sand to smooth out for a base to the top coats.

    Instead of using clear topcoat I used a Black precatilized lacquer that I mixed to be in between flat and satin. I decided to put the dye under the lacquer so if it gets chipped it won't show as much. And it also means I only had to put 2 coats of lacquer that will cure quicker and covered much better. It is still a bit shiner than my Depth i's but I can always rub it down it it bothers me.

    My brother in law came over just as I was getting ready to start spraying the dye and about had a heart attack because I was going to spray the Oak black. He ask why I would do that and I told him that it is a well know fact that if your main speakers match subs they will sound better. It took him a minute but he figured I was kidding. I am not sure that subconsciously I probably don't think it can't hurt anyway.
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  5. #35
    Forum Administrator twich54's Avatar
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    Brad, you are one talented son-of-a-gun !!!!
    Dave

    System #79 - Analog is Alive and Well, if in doubt, click the link below !

    Click Here to see my System

  6. #36
    Super User C.A.P's Avatar
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    I love Aniline dyes. I use a lot of Behelens and Trans Tint . I spray it and use it on my gun stocks. It works wonders on Maple and Beech.
    Martin Logan... Odyssey...Krell KSA 100s...Krell KRC3 Pre Amp...Krell Connect Media server/DAC
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  7. #37
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    Wow, I had your first DIY post bookmarked because I really liked the other stands you had and hoped to make something similar if I ever got unlazy. You certainly just raised the bar! Very impressive.

  8. #38
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    Thanks for posting all the construction photos. You did a wonderful job!

    One question, what is the square opening in the middle of the base for?

  9. #39
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.A.P View Post
    I love Aniline dyes. I use a lot of Behelens and Trans Tint . I spray it and use it on my gun stocks. It works wonders on Maple and Beech.
    I agree they apply and cover so much easier that oil based products. Once I learned to respect their ability to turn any body part you splash on another color for weeks I liked them more. They are great for tight grained woods that don't want to accept surface stains.
    I have used Behlens products they are very good quality. On this I used Campbell's for the first time. They were available locally from one of cabinet shop suppliers.

    Put up some pics of your gun stocks. I have never made a gun stock or grip. I'm planing on making a bit larger grip for my wife's S&W 38 any tips?

  10. #40
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxford View Post
    Thanks for posting all the construction photos. You did a wonderful job!

    One question, what is the square opening in the middle of the base for?
    By using one large piece of wood that expands and contracts quite a bit with the seasonal humidity change it would be much less stable structurally.
    Using pieces jointed at 90 degrees to each other it helps stabilize all of the pieces.

    As for the exact size for the opening in the base. My boards were 9" wide so it seemed like a nice size hole to leave. Sorry no secret mathematical/structural reason.
    I actually think may things are built based on the size of a board available without gluing pieces together.Plus the electronics box is now covering it any way.

    I will post finished pics in the room as soon as I can get one that descent.

  11. #41
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Finally came up with some reasonable pics of them set up.

    A couple of things I forgot to include.

    During the assembly I used Dyna Mat ( a rubber sound & vibration dampening sheet material) to wrap the edges of the panels before fitting them into the vertical frame members to be sure there wouldn't be metal against wood. I also used the Dyna Mat between the flat mounting plate and the wood on the braces.

    The wiring from the panel to the electronics is covered in black Tech Flex mesh with heat shrink tubing at the ends. You can see it in the picture of the back in the left corner where the panel meets the frame.

    The electronics box is now setting on 3 Herbie's vibration blocks behind the panel.

    I am still making adjustments in their position but my impression to this point is that the frame with the braces did make a difference in not only seeming to fix the image of sounds more precisely but noticeably added depth to the staging.
    The center image was to intense and I reduced the toe-in from 2" to maybe 1/2". I am very pleased with the improvement and will continue to make adjustments to see if they can be improved more.

    Thanks for all of your kind comments.
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  12. #42
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    Amazing... Design and Workmanship. Well done.

  13. #43
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    Brad, I can't believe I missed this thread (it happened during my first startup, so no free time), this is a great project, well done!

    It totally transforms the look of the CLS panel, making it a much more attractive speaker IMHO.

    I would that these perform much better than traditional CLS.

    Whomever winds up with these will have gotten the deal of the century, there is lots of loving handiwork in those frames. I'm tempted, as they would make nice rears
    Jonathan

    System #45 (Monolith IIIx, Sequell IIb, SL3XC)

  14. #44
    Super User User211's Avatar
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    I'm waiting for the CLX frame upgrade. May take a year or two before it happens, though, I'm sure.

  15. #45
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonFo View Post
    Brad, I can't believe I missed this thread (it happened during my first startup, so no free time), this is a great project, well done!

    It totally transforms the look of the CLS panel, making it a much more attractive speaker IMHO.

    I would that these perform much better than traditional CLS.

    Whomever winds up with these will have gotten the deal of the century, there is lots of loving handiwork in those frames. I'm tempted, as they would make nice rears
    Thanks Jonathan, I appreciate that, from someone that knows what it takes to begin with some parts and create something entirely new.

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