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Thread: New CLS Frames

  1. #16
    Super User Bernard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.A.P View Post
    They remind me of a real sexy Soundlab !With out cloths !
    Chris, do you mean a naked Soundlab ?
     

  2. #17
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feltran View Post
    About how many hours did you spend on this project, and how wide are the speakers with the new frames?
    The width of the frame holding the panels is 25 1/2" and the base is 27".

    I didn't keep track but I would guess close to 80 hrs. I am a design as you go person so there was also a bunch of head scratching time.

  3. #18
    Super User sleepysurf's Avatar
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    I'd love to see an "Iron Audiophile" competition (a la Iron Chef)... pitting Brad against JonFo in a workshop with assorted woodworking tools, ML panels, and parts, and see what they conjure up!
    Squeezebox Touch/Bel Canto DAC 3.5VB + Oppo BDP-95 > Conrad-Johnson CT5 preamp and Premier 350 amp > ML Expressions 13A. Dual ML BalancedForce 210 subs. Audience Au24e I/C's, speaker cable.
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  4. #19
    Forum Moderator MiTT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleepysurf View Post
    I'd love to see an "Iron Audiophile" competition (a la Iron Chef)... pitting Brad against JonFo in a workshop with assorted woodworking tools, ML panels, and parts, and see what they conjure up!
    Don't forget C.A.P. in that mix. His old Quest mods were a thing of freakin' beauty.

    Brad 225 - awesome, awesome work sir, very well done.
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  5. #20
    Super User sleepysurf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiTT View Post
    Don't forget C.A.P. in that mix. His old Quest mods were a thing of freakin' beauty...
    Oops, sorry 'bout that! Any other Ultimate Tweakers I've missed?
    Squeezebox Touch/Bel Canto DAC 3.5VB + Oppo BDP-95 > Conrad-Johnson CT5 preamp and Premier 350 amp > ML Expressions 13A. Dual ML BalancedForce 210 subs. Audience Au24e I/C's, speaker cable.
    Click here to see my entire sytem. Member of the Suncoast Audiophile Society.

  6. #21
    Super User C.A.P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernard View Post
    Chris, do you mean a naked Soundlab ?
    Naked sound lab with better looks. Kind of like the whole package. NO BAG NEEDED!


    Thanks Tim! Those were nice , I was a bit lost when I sold them. But My CLS far surpass them in sonic detail.

    Brad, How do the SOUND ????
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  7. #22
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleepysurf View Post
    I'd love to see an "Iron Audiophile" competition (a la Iron Chef)... pitting Brad against JonFo in a workshop with assorted woodworking tools, ML panels, and parts, and see what they conjure up!
    Someone always has to stir the pot and cause trouble.

    I think I will leave the technical electrical stuff to JonFo and Cap.
    My most memorable electrical story has to do with shorting out an electrical breaker panel at a friends house, blowing up the transformer on the pole and darkening the neighborhood. My wife will never let me forget that each time I start to work on our home.

  8. #23
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.A.P View Post
    Naked sound lab with better looks. Kind of like the whole package. NO BAG NEEDED!


    Thanks Tim! Those were nice , I was a bit lost when I sold them. But My CLS far surpass them in sonic detail.

    Brad, How do the SOUND ????
    That is one thing that sets ML's apart is the open appearance. Most other speakers you see that normally have a sock over them are not very attractive when removed.

    As to the sound, the first surprise was that they actually worked when I turned my equipment on. Next came the wow does this sound bad listening to tube pre & amps, CDP and speakers powered up for the first time in a month.
    After about half an hour I was able to stop pouring down glasses of wine to kill the painful sound.
    I was only able to listen for about 20 min. once things started to sound better. The image placement and separation of sounds seemed much different and very pleasing. I am sure most of that is due to them being in a bit different position than before and also not having heard them in a month. I will say they sounded great though. I'll post more after I listen for a longer period.

  9. #24
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    Very, very nice! The size is very well proportioned and eliminates the patio "gate" look.

    I was always curious on how strong is the CLS frame since it is not constructed as a box frame with a support back. With your design frame being much taller, how strong is the lateral and rotational stiffness? I guess the panel itself must add to the stiffness?

    Please include some construction shots.

    BTW, you also have a very nice looking workshop!

  10. #25
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    I discovered that I am missing the pictures from the fabrication of parts. I'm sure they are somewhere in my computer but I have had no luck finding them. I re-shot a few of pics of the process of making some parts even though it won't be of the real part you'll get the idea.

    I will try to just separate the text so you can figure out which pic it connects to.

    I started with a piece of foam core board like you would mount posters or pictures on. The foam core has a heavy paper almost smooth cardboard over foam and in this case is 1/4" thick. It was just a matter of setting it on the top of the curved panel that sticks out from the frame that holds it and draw with a marker against the panel. This gave me the curve the panel needed to have when finished to keep the 30 degree dispersion pattern I believe all ML's have. I just cut on the line with a razor knife and that was the curve that would be used to calculate all of the others.
    ------------
    I transfered that to a larger piece of foam core and with the use of a compass that would extend to 48" and with the process of elimination I kept adjusting it until I found the radius of the front of the panel from my original patterns curve.
    Once that was established I was able to layout the full scale plan on the foam.
    This is where I really worked out the details of how large the verticals would be and how much larger the base and other 2 horizontal member would be in relation to each other. I realize it is hard to see in the pic but you get the idea.

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    Close up of the layout. You can see that the most outside line that represented the base is not what I ended up building. I realized it looked to chunky and needed to follow the curve of the front.
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  11. #26
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    I chose Oak for my frames for a couple of reason. 1st the grain would look simular to the Ash of the Depth I's I had recently pruchased. 2nd I had Red Oak leftover from another project on a cart in the shop and if this didn't work I hadn't spent more money.
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  12. #27
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    This is how the parts looks when they were machined and approaching staining. You can see the shape of each piece. The base as well as the top rail had a rectangular mortise cut into it to hold the vertical rail in place.
    I used 1/4" #20 thread furniture bolts (this bolt has a large head like a washer and you use an Allen wrench to tighten them) to hold pieces together. You can see the hole in the middle of the mortise where the bolts come through from the bottom on the base. There is a corresponding steel insert that is threaded into the bottom of the vertical frame members that the furniture bolt threads into.
    The other 3 holes in the base is for a bolt that will thread into spikes. I think it is easier to adjust them from the top and you really don't see them when finished.
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  13. #28
    Super User C.A.P's Avatar
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    Nice shop. Did you use aniline dye to stain them black? Did you spray the final top coats ?
    Martin Logan... Odyssey...Krell KSA 100s...Krell KRC3 Pre Amp...Krell Connect Media server/DAC
    My system here

  14. #29
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    This is where I'm missing some pics so I used scraps of wood to explain a couple of steps.

    To machine the curves on the wood there are a number of ways this can be accomplished. I just happened to pick this one for no particular reason. I generally choose the easiest and stopped making jigs that would last forever. In 30 years of furniture making I have seldom used one over.

    What you see is a Plunge Router mounted on a piece of plywood to create a compass that you can cut a curve with. This is like any other router but with a lever on the back side that allows you to easily raised and lowered the cutting bit easily and accurately. This process can be performed with any router but with more time involved.
    The curved piece of wood represents one of the frame members that would have a curve on it. The wood here is not attached to the bench but should be securely held in place with screws through it or blocks to hold it in place while milling it. Behind that is a scrap of wood the same thickness as the piece of the frame being milled so the router compass will set flat on the work piece.
    To determine the arc that is being cut you measure your full size pattern for the radius you want to cut. Then measure from your router bit back along the center line of the plywood and drill a small hole. Once you have lined up the bit on top of the piece of wood you are machining you can put a screw into the back block of wood through the hole you drilled and that will set the radius. Depending on whether you are cutting the curve on the front side of the wood as in the picture or the back side will determined which side of the router bit you would measure from.

    You will want to test it with a scrap to be sure it matches your full size plan before you continue. Unlike what you see on This Old House and that furniture show with Norm. When they cut a piece and it almost always fits perfectly the first time. That's editing, sometimes you get lucky but not a often as you would like.
    You then can then make a number of passes back and forth until you achieve the depth you need. Be aware that you need to hold on tight to the router because it will pull you around the curve if you are not ready. Also the smaller the cut you take each time the less chance of tearing out a piece of the grain as it changes along the board.

    I have had that router pull me across that same work table more that once by not paying attention.
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  15. #30
    Super User Brad225's Avatar
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    For cutting the mortises in the top rail and base along with the dado (groove) to hold the middle horizontal rail. I used another router with a collar to rub against the side of a plywood jig sized to make the recess you are looking for.

    Scrap of wood showing the mortise that was cut and the jig.

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    Router upside down with the bit sticking through the collar. I don't recommend duct tape repairs for electrical but it was an old job site accident and it has held up for years so why bother.


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    The jig with the router collar rubbing against the jig. As you can see I made the jig opening to large and had to add a piece to make it the right size. The distance you have the bit below the plywood jig is how deep the mortise will be.


    --------

    You clamp the jig and wood together and run the router back and forth until you have cut out the wood to form the recessed rectangle. After that you just have to cut the corners square that were left with a radius by the router bit. That mortise is a bit rough but it was more for size than beauty.
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