How to fix your own CLS panel and save $1500.00.

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gregadd

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:(In cleaning my ML CLS I, I pulled the wires from the panel. Has anyone ever done this and made a repair? If so could you walk me threw it.
I prefer not to have to buy new panels. How did it happen? Don't ask.:confused:
gregadd
 
:(In cleaning my ML CLS I, I pulled the wires from the panel. Has anyone ever done this and made a repair? If so could you walk me threw it.
I prefer not to have to buy new panels. How did it happen? Don't ask.:confused:
gregadd

Hola gregadd. Did you pull all the three wires, blue, red and black? Usually the blue or the black are the ones that makes faulty contact. You will need a heavy soldering iron, at least 80 Watts, and solder the joint back again. You should contact Mr. Jim Power at Martin Logan service dept. for his advise. He will guide you for a success project. Hope this might help,
Roberto.
 
pulled all three

I pulled all three I think they had decayed. It happened to easy. I have good soldering iron. I am waiting for a response from Jim Power.
gregadd
 
I pulled all three I think they had decayed. It happened to easy. I have good soldering iron. I am waiting for a response from Jim Power.
gregadd
You have to solder as follows, blue at the front stat panel, red to the diaphragm, and black to the back stat panel. You must take apart the whole panel from the frame and the electronics...the do the soldering, and back, and you are done...
Roberto.
 
does not look promising

Just heard from Jim. He did not sound encouraged. Outside wires are repairable. Inside is not. It takes a 250 watt gun standard SN60-PB40 solder. It sounds like a weekend project.
If any one else has gone through this I would appreciate your input. Especially what type of adhesive you used to put it back together. I think Jim wants to sell me new panels. That would dip into my savings fund for CLX. This might be of interest to you guys maybe I will post some pictures.
 
Just heard from Jim. He did not sound encouraged. Outside wires are repairable. Inside is not. It takes a 250 watt gun standard SN60-PB40 solder. It sounds like a weekend project.
If any one else has gone through this I would appreciate your input. Especially what type of adhesive you used to put it back together. I think Jim wants to sell me new panels. That would dip into my savings fund for CLX. This might be of interest to you guys maybe I will post some pictures.

Hola...he is telling you the truth. You need a heavy soldering iron, for the stat panels. The solder joint must be done fast and clean. You need also wonder solder or similar solder. You could use Radio Shack silver solder, that melts at lower temperature than the tin/lead 60/40 standard solder. It is a fun project for a week end. Be careful with the solder joint at the diaphragm (red wire). Hope this helps,
Roberto.
 
let's stick togehther

Any thoughts an adhesive? I'll have to glue the panels back together.
gregadd
 
Any thoughts an adhesive? I'll have to glue the panels back together.
gregadd

You do not take the panel apart...you just solder the wires at the bottom part of the panel. My only concern is the red wire...you can do that with a solder pencil iron. Look the other good panel so you can be sure how they are solder to the stat panels. The front panel is blue, the back panel is black, and the center, goes the red that is solder to an aluminum foil. This is the high bias voltage. I wish you luck!
Roberto.
 
I can't see

you'll have to pry it apart just to get in there and make sure you don't melt anything. The good thing is thy Mylar frame remains glued down when you pry it apart.
My brother has mechanical skills. He'll be doing the work and I'll be giving the instructions.
 
you'll have to pry it apart just to get in there and make sure you don't melt anything. The good thing is thy Mylar frame remains glued down when you pry it apart.
My brother has mechanical skills. He'll be doing the work and I'll be giving the instructions.

I wish you tuns of luck!
R.
 
M/L warning

Jim Power WARNS THAT M/L DOES NOT RECCOMMEND REMOVING PANEL FROM THE FRAME FOR CLEANING. FOR CLEANING, PANEL SHOULD BE DIS-CHARGED AND THEN VACUMMED.
Reading between the lines suggests that any damage done by removal of the panel will not be covered by the warranty. ( I asked if they would discount a new pair based on the warranty.No answer.)

Gregadd
 
Jim Power WARNS THAT M/L DOES NOT RECCOMMEND REMOVING PANEL FROM THE FRAME FOR CLEANING. FOR CLEANING, PANEL SHOULD BE DIS-CHARGED AND THEN VACUMMED.
Reading between the lines suggests that any damage done by removal of the panel will not be covered by the warranty. ( I asked if they would discount a new pair based on the warranty.No answer.)

Gregadd

If you want to solder the cables to the stators, taking it apart from the frame is a must, I do not know any other way to do this kind of task...it looks that you are going to have fun with a nice week-end project...happy listening,
roberto.
 
prying stators apart

I can see the metal strip I have to solder the cable too. It looks like I will not have too pry the the stators apart only about 6'' along each edge.
The adhesive ml uses is not locally available. JP recommended "silicone caulk.
 
I can see the metal strip I have to solder the cable too. It looks like I will not have too pry the the stators apart only about 6'' along each edge.
The adhesive ml uses is not locally available. JP recommended "silicone caulk.
You solder three cables, blue at the front stator, red in the metal strip, and black to the back's stator. Happy listening,
Roberto.
 
making progress

After much review we elected not to solder the inside wire. just too risky. glued it instead. we'll let the whole thing cure. I'll keep my fingers crossed.:bowdown:
 
Houston we have lift off

Music is playing through my wounded CLS as I type this. Score one for American can do attitude.
Thanx for the help and encouragement Roberto. My brother is the original fix it guy.
I have pictures and will update you all on ultimate sound quality.
"be careful out there":ROFL::ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:
 
Music is playing through my wounded CLS as I type this. Score one for American can do attitude.
Thanx for the help and encouragement Roberto. My brother is the original fix it guy.
I have pictures and will update you all on ultimate sound quality.
"be careful out there":ROFL::ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:
The best good news!!! You do not have to thanks me!...you did the job well, happy listening, warm regards from Costa Rica,
Roberto.
 
a few pictures

I hope the pictures came through
 

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more pics

before pictures
 

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I can't help but think that there is a lot of useful information in this thread that will be lost forever as it is not searchable because the thread title gives no indication as to what it is about.

I wish thread starters would choose their titles carefully instead of creating catchy titles. Please, no flames - I think this is a valid concern.
 
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