No pictures here yet, as I've been on the road for the last two months, but . . .
My homemade panels are the same as Burke's, same Armstong fiberglass ceiling tiles stripped of their face in metal stud frames. Two slight differences though, are I used the rubber mesh used to line toolboxes for the covering and have a layer of thin cork in the center layer of f/glass.
I was going to use kraft paper instead of cork to see what difference that would make but ran out of patience.
What I did do before leaving for my job was to change their positions, from directly behind the speakers (actually on the front wall, in line with the speakers which are 5 feet or so from that wall) to various positions on said same front wall.
At this time I had also reinstalled my subwoofer, with good results this time.
Eventually, I ended up with this configuration, which I was quite satisfied with at the time:
The speakers are still out 5 or 6 feet from the front wall, the sub is in the right front corner where the rack used to be, and the two 7 x 2 panels are perpendicular to the front wall, one at the right front corner with the sub, 4 inches from the right wall; the other equidistant to the left but 1/2 of the width overall of the room.
My 2 smaller 4 x 2 panels are further to the left, one perpendicular to the front wall again and a doors width away from the 7 x 2, the other catty-corner in the far left corner of the room.
Between the phaseing and positioning of the sub, cutting bands with the Behringer, plus the new positions of the panels (done after getting the sub straight) I notice an improvement over the former positions when it came to harsh nodes in the bass.
Just for S & G's, try turning your free standing panels 90 degrees to the walls and see what happens.
My homemade panels are the same as Burke's, same Armstong fiberglass ceiling tiles stripped of their face in metal stud frames. Two slight differences though, are I used the rubber mesh used to line toolboxes for the covering and have a layer of thin cork in the center layer of f/glass.
I was going to use kraft paper instead of cork to see what difference that would make but ran out of patience.
What I did do before leaving for my job was to change their positions, from directly behind the speakers (actually on the front wall, in line with the speakers which are 5 feet or so from that wall) to various positions on said same front wall.
At this time I had also reinstalled my subwoofer, with good results this time.
Eventually, I ended up with this configuration, which I was quite satisfied with at the time:
The speakers are still out 5 or 6 feet from the front wall, the sub is in the right front corner where the rack used to be, and the two 7 x 2 panels are perpendicular to the front wall, one at the right front corner with the sub, 4 inches from the right wall; the other equidistant to the left but 1/2 of the width overall of the room.
My 2 smaller 4 x 2 panels are further to the left, one perpendicular to the front wall again and a doors width away from the 7 x 2, the other catty-corner in the far left corner of the room.
Between the phaseing and positioning of the sub, cutting bands with the Behringer, plus the new positions of the panels (done after getting the sub straight) I notice an improvement over the former positions when it came to harsh nodes in the bass.
Just for S & G's, try turning your free standing panels 90 degrees to the walls and see what happens.
