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Thread: Aerius tweeks

  1. #1

    Default Aerius tweeks

    I asked a few questions about the Aerius and realized I should put everything in one place here in the tweeks section. I'm going to do some internal tweeks to my Aerius' in the next few weeks and I'll be posting on this thread until it's done.

    The tweeks I'm looking at are:
    1. Clean them...but I won't talk about that here as it's been talked about elsewhere enough.
    2. Solder the stator leads to remove the screw-type junction(s)
    3. Capacitor upgrade in the x-over.

    Stator Leads
    First off I was thinking about soldering the stator leads on the speakers. In the process of opening the back up to examine the x-over I realized that there is a screw-type junction not only on the front of the speaker, but also on the x-over itself.
    Here's an image of the front junction from HK-Steve's Sequel cleaning writeup. When I start work on my Aerius' I'll get a pic.

    Here is a picture of the Aerius x-over, ML indicates that the Aerius i should be almost identical.

    Notice that there is a stator connector on the main panel, this means that the signal path for the stator is going through 2 cheap screw-on type connectors. Now, obviously soldering these would make maintenance, replacing the stators, and repair more difficult, but given the frequency of those things I think it's worth it.

    I'll update here as the tweeks are done.

    Crossover Mods
    I labeled the values of each capacitor in the picture. I'll post details as I start the tweeks.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Very interesting,
    Are your speakers the Aerius or the Aerius i ???
    They look like the Aerius.

    I have the Aerius i and my crossover layout is a little different to yours.
    I can send a picture to you and we can work out if there are any improvements between the 2 designs, that are an improvment.

    I don't have any way to host the picture and add the link, sorry


    Cheers
    Steve

  3. #3
    MLO owner/operator TomDac's Avatar
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    you can attach the image to the message itself and it will then get uploaded to the server here...

    give it a try.

    Tom.
    Tom D'Acquisto
    MartinLoganOwners.com owner/operator
    ML Owner from 1988 to 2015 (Sequels, reQuests, Summits, Cinema)
    Currently MartinLoganless
    CL
    ick HERE to see my ML systems of the past.


    Click here to see how you can help support this site!

  4. #4

    Default

    I tried posting a reply with the follow up images but apparently this forum has a limit on the number of images that can be posted so I put the details on the swap on a web page at: Stator wire solder tweek

  5. #5
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    James,
    Any further updates on the Tweaks?

    Have you ordered any capacitors yet?
    or settled on a brand name?


    Looking forward to some results soon,

    I will be helping you soon, I just have to wait for my New Quest stators to get here, then I can get stuck into my Aerius i's.


    Cheers
    Steve

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HK-Steve
    James,
    Any further updates on the Tweaks?
    I ordered the caps, I'm experimenting with North Creek Zen caps, as I've had good luck with them on my old Magies, but I've never used them exclusively before.

    I haven't had time to install them yet. As a cost effective experiment I decided to get one 10mfd cap to replace the solen, and bypass caps for the remaining caps. This made the total cost for both speakers only $36USD but we'll see what the results are like.

  7. #7

    Default Caps

    Finally got around to doing the cap upgrade. I had originally planned to replace just the 10mfd cap in each speaker and bypass the other caps in the stator circuit (2). So I got 2 10mfd Harmony caps and 4 Zen bypass caps (0.22mfd). Total cost for both speakers, delivered was $36.

    Unfortunately, when removing the 10mfd Solen (one speaker had a Solen, the other had an Aeon cap) I discovered that the 30mfd caps next to it have very fragile leads, and one broke off at the base, which meant I had to replace the 30mfd caps as well. I figured I'd have to order whatever I replaced them with so why not get something different, so I ordered 2 30mfd Solen caps. I went with Solen to keep the cost down, but still have a decent sounding cap. Plus, given that ML put their money in the 10mfd caps, I'm assuming that's where the best gains would come from. Total cost for 2 30mfd Solens was about $36 with 2-day shipping.

    This image shows the new caps and the ones they replace or bypass (soldered in parrallel):


    Now, since I was replacing the 30mfd caps instead of bypassing them as I had planned I decided to use the extra bypass caps on one of the caps in the woofer circuit.

    Here is an image of all the caps soldered in:


    Impressions:
    For reference I'm using a Meridian 565 preamp in direct mode, a Bel Canto 200.2 amp, and a Cambridge Audio Azur 540D as a transport, with a digital connection to the Meridian.

    Well, as with the stator wire upgrade, I wasn't able to really head-to-head the upgrade, but then that would really be hard to do without another pair of stock Aerius'.

    Overall there is a noticable reduction in harshness in the treble, the speakers are clearer and smoother. However, what seems more noticable is that they have dissapeared much more. I don't notice any increase in the depth of the soundfield, but the speakers are less visible in the horizontal soundstage. The difference sounds like going from a decent amplifier to a high quality one. Given the price, it's a no-brainer upgrade if you don't mind doing a little solder work. The difference is much more dramatic than the stator solder tweek, and given the price I can't image anything you could do that would create anything close at the price.

    One thing that did surprise me, is that there seems to be more bass comming out of the speakers. But, to be honest I think this might just be a matter of position and recording. I can't imaging that a single bypass cap in the woofer circuit would have that impact.

    I can't say how much of the difference is the new 30mfd Solen, the 10mfd Harmony, or the Zen bypass caps, but based on my experience I'd say the Solen probably isn't as big a factor as the bypass caps and the Harmony cap.

  8. #8
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    James,
    Can I ask why you added capacitors in Parallel with the origonals, rather than replace?

    What are the values that you are using? it isn't that clear in the picture.


    I am interested in the woofer increase in output,
    I will order some capacitors when I come back from Vacation in Spain next week, and get back to you on what I find.


    Cheers
    Steve

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HK-Steve
    James,
    Can I ask why you added capacitors in Parallel with the origonals, rather than replace?
    Cost and size. Those are 100mfd and 170mfd and 30mfd caps. Replacing those would be much more expensive, and I wanted to experiment with the Bypassing that North Creek recomends.

    What are the values that you are using? it isn't that clear in the picture.
    The bypass caps are .22mfd, North Creek sells 2 versions: .22 and 1.0.

    I am interested in the woofer increase in output,
    I will order some capacitors when I come back from Vacation in Spain next week, and get back to you on what I find.
    I can't promise you'll notice an improvement in the bass output, while I think I hear it, I can't image that it's really happening just with a single bypass cap. My thoughts at this point are that it's being caused by some other factor.

    Post your thoughts when you do the mod, better to have 2 takes on it.

  10. #10
    aaverhoeff
    Guest

    Default Arius filter schematic

    Hello JJCar and others,

    Thanks for the informative posts on the Aerius (i).
    I'd like to tweak my own Aerius-i and would like to have a look at the schematics. I'm new to this forum, did a search in the archives but couldn't find a schematic of the filter.
    Can any of you help me further, in this forum or off-list?

    Best regards, Arjen.
    email: vrhff04-at-xs4all.nl (replace -at- by @)

  11. #11
    Andre
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    Default

    I think you can only do mods to the X-Over, and the caps as shown is clearly marked. Otherwise you may mess up with the x-over point.

  12. #12
    Andre
    Guest

    Default

    JJ Carr,
    Just wondering if you can use the old 10uF Solen cap to bypass the 100uF or 170uF caps? What is the general rule in the value of the bypass caps?
    Cheers..

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andre
    JJ Carr,
    Just wondering if you can use the old 10uF Solen cap to bypass the 100uF or 170uF caps? What is the general rule in the value of the bypass caps?
    Cheers..
    I haven't checked back here in a long time, just got this.

    I think the general rule of bypass is 1% of the main capacitor, but generally a 1mfd cap can bypass just about anything over 50mfd. Cascading caps is a different story, but not really applicable here. Using a 10mfd to bypass a 100mfd is more of a cascading type thing, like a Multi-cap. I wouldn't recomend it.

    I don't have a crossover schematic. That's part of the reason I did a 1 for 1 replacement on caps and bypassed those that I didn't replace. I had to make guesses based on my experience with the Requests. Look at the Request schematic, it's in one of the tweeks here that I did a while ago. You can extrapolate what the Aerius has. As Andre said, unless you have a full schemantic and really know what you're doing, probably not a good idea to mess with the cap values.

    So, has anyone else done this and have feedback?

  14. #14
    robygiovi
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jjcarr
    I asked a few questions about the Aerius and realized I should put everything in one place here in the tweeks section. I'm going to do some internal tweeks to my Aerius' in the next few weeks and I'll be posting on this thread until it's done.

    The tweeks I'm looking at are:
    1. Clean them...but I won't talk about that here as it's been talked about elsewhere enough.
    2. Solder the stator leads to remove the screw-type junction(s)
    3. Capacitor upgrade in the x-over.

    Stator Leads
    First off I was thinking about soldering the stator leads on the speakers. In the process of opening the back up to examine the x-over I realized that there is a screw-type junction not only on the front of the speaker, but also on the x-over itself.
    Here's an image of the front junction from HK-Steve's Sequel cleaning writeup. When I start work on my Aerius' I'll get a pic.

    Here is a picture of the Aerius x-over, ML indicates that the Aerius i should be almost identical.

    Notice that there is a stator connector on the main panel, this means that the signal path for the stator is going through 2 cheap screw-on type connectors. Now, obviously soldering these would make maintenance, replacing the stators, and repair more difficult, but given the frequency of those things I think it's worth it.

    I'll update here as the tweeks are done.

    Crossover Mods
    I labeled the values of each capacitor in the picture. I'll post details as I start the tweeks.
    Hello,
    I am a new member .
    I have two used EL panels ( + bias supply circuit ) of the Aerius and I would want to make myself a pair of loudspeakers.
    Please , do you know the values of the resistors , the ratio of the output transformer?

    Thank you

    Roberto

  15. #15
    Andre
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    Default

    JJ Carr,
    After lots of procastination and getting the parts and equipments ready, I finally did the mod last Saturday. I used 30uF Black Solens and 10uF MIT MusiCaps for caps replacement, and 0.33uF White Solens to bypass the 22uF caps. Did not alter anything to the 100uF and 170uF caps.

    Results: better hi-freq output and extension....yes speaker vanishing act improves
    Images are more palpable now. Details improved such that you can hear the singer's occasional 'sticky lips'.
    Bass is more extended and relaxed, not boomy.
    Overall definition is simply a notch up.

    Thanks for the write up JJ! Found a new and exciting life for the Aerius i now.
    Just wondering what would bypassing the 100uF and 170uF be like?

    (BTW, the Black Solens and MIT Musicaps were purchased 15 years ago to mod my Maggie IIIs (from Michael Percy), and didn't get to do it even until I sold the Maggies).

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