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slownlo

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I replaced the 2 missing caps in the cap ladder (this was a ML tweak to bring down the panel bias voltage) I like the voltage higher...personally I think the extra juice brings out more of the high end and makes the speaker faster transients...see reference to this on the thread "more power = better sound"...

I also replaced all of the wire wound resistors with some aluminum housed resistors and reaplaced the filter caps with some Clarity caps...

The top of the electronics module was replaced for some smoke black acrylic that really gives the modules a more jazzy and modern look....definitely an improvement from the boring metal top that was there...

Replaced those crappy binding posts with some WBT jobs...nice.

Sound?

Still breaking in the caps but I can tell the mids are MUCH smoother with those Clarity caps, the cheap stock Bennics did nothing for the sound and really gave the highs that harsh "cappy" sound when pushed...now the sound is smooth and effortless...but lush...

I'm actuall thinking about getting the panels replaced since they are about 15 yrs old....they still sound great, but I think I may take the plunge and just get a new set, for the placebic effect as well as the actual improvement (the ones I have now are fine but you know how the audiophile mind works)...If I do I'll be selling the old ones...like I said they still sound great...

My next mod will be an on/off switch and LED indicator...I need to check the scheme for a low voltage source on the board for the LED...<p>

<p>
 

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For a while i have been lurking on your treads :meditate:

What a great job you have made :bowdown:

I would like to get your toughts about using flat-wire coils as replacement for the original coils..., that since i have planned to make a similar job like what you have done and maybe add the FW coils, but i have great doubt what outcome using coils with a lot less DC resistiance will be for the overall performance from CLS MKI..., sure thing that the result is better low end and higher SPL ;)
 
I wish I knew how to solder and build stuff. My tweaking is a pretty limited. Nevertheless, I can tell you this: replace those metal screws holding down your inductor coils with nylon screws. It will make a big difference. You might also want to solder a .47uF capacitor between the hot and neutral terminals of the IEC. It'll clean up the electricity coming into the cross-over.

Let me know what you think.
 
Regarding the advice placing cap across the mains socket...,
The cap needs be of a Class X2 rating ;)

Did receive a couple of coils last night with 10 AWG.., actully they are more heavy then 10 AWG since they both has a 2.65mm tread :D

spoler_265mm.jpg


One was on the spot with 2.5mH, the other coil a 1.8mH did need some windings removed to lower its value for 1.2mH,This is the spec of the other (original) coil in my pair of CLS

I have made a schematics of my #1307 & 1307 which compared to the commen CLS scheme, has showed to be a quite different breed, not only the value of the coils but also the resistors are different ..., i know for at fact the alteration of the resistors is a mod. which where made by the local distributor by a service bullitin received from ML :p
Lets have a look on the schematics compared to the known ver.
CLSFILTERCOMP.jpg

Slownlo ..., seen at your picture your ver. is missing the 4 Ohm resistor showed in the PDF schematics
 
I was wondering if any of you noticed any difference. I suspect you will. I also would like to know if any of you considered the Alpha-Core Goertz stuff.
 
edison price binding posts

now go ahead and replace the binding post with edison price binding posts. about $60.00 form music direct. the short ones will do just fine.:bowdown:
 
Hi,
I change the resistors of 1.5MO in a better versions, it's sound better too and after the recabling of the "pcb" OV référence, it's better...
 

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