System #45 (Monolith IIIx, SL3XC, Sequel II)

Supporting Three Displays

Had some fun solving a somewhat unique challenge, and thought maybe some of you might benefit from some of the info here.

My problem: I need to drive three displays from my Denon AVP-A1 preamp.

Why the heck does anyone need three displays? Well, my gear is in a dedicated A/V equipment room next to my HT, it houses the AVP, all the amps and most of the sources, including an HTPC.
So when I’m in the equipment room, I need a display to see what’s happening via the AVP. So whether it’s tweaking some AVP parameter via its OSD, or looking at DirecTV menus, or the HTPC UI, a display is required.

In the main HT, I have my projector, but I also have a nice 22” IPS LED/LCD monitor to use when listening to music or for random checks on DirectTV and I don’t want to go through the hassle (and wear) of turning the PJ on.

So the AVP monitor 1 output feeds the PJ, and monitor 2 used to feed the in-HT display. But to get the third equipment room display, we need something extra known as a splitter.

There are some nice HDMI splitters out there, but some (looking at you Geffen) are pretty spendy. So being value-conscious, I looked around and sure enough, found a very cool box to solve my need and even give me an extra feature I’ll be using.

The product is a 4x2 HDMI matrix switch, meaning it can route up to four different inputs to either of 2 outputs. For $60 or so, it’s an incredible value. And more importantly, works perfectly for me.

It is the Monoprice 4X2 True Matrix HDMI Switch, available here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L17134/

I hooked up the AVP monitor 2 output to the input 4 on the switch, then connected my two LCD monitors to switch output 1 & 2, and configured both to pull from input 4. Voila, I can now have three displays showing the same content.

Even better yet, since it’s a matrix switcher, I can also feed additional inputs, such as another PC/laptop, and use the same display in the equipment room to perform setups or test things. Very handy.

So there you have it, an easy way to add more outputs to any HDMI setup.

Here is a pic of the equipment room monitor. I hung it on the wall above the HTPC that sits next to my main gear rack.
Since most work is done standing, this puts it at the right height and it's out of the way.

Jon,
Great piece of advice for those with multiple monitor needs. I'll add it to my equipment list and AC requirements which keeps growing.

This is going to be a much more active summer compared to the last four years, as I'm embarking on several updates this year.

First up: Supplementing the old Denon universal player (CD/DVD-A/SACD) with a more modern player that really covers the bases, the Oppo BDP-103.



That Oppo is a very, very well engineered box, the features are amazing, and performance on SACD is the best I've ever heard. Not even the Denon 2930 on DL3 would deliver as complete a sound. Mainly because the Oppo actually gets the .1 channel correct. I never felt the Denon player / AVP combo could get that channel right for SACDs.

I was going to take in my 2930 for a laser unit update (it was skipping on SACDs at the end of a disc), but now I'm wondering if it's even worth the effort.

The UI on the new 1xx series Oppos is excellent and it's abilities as a DLNA renderer and controller are very, very good.

One general feature I just love is its ability to resume any of the last five discs you've put in it from the last point of play. It works great with concert BluRays. This feature is nice for demos, as I can cue-up a couple of scenes on three or four discs, and just pop them in in turn and they all immediately pick right up at the right spot with the right settings (audio track and all that).

The Oppo BDP-103 is a beautiful player. It's #1 on my wish list.

Jonathan, what's your opinion on the Oppo's ability when it comes to redbook CD's ?

Hi Dave, I've used it very little in that capacity, as all my CDs get ripped to FLAC files and played from the server. But I played two discs, and it sounds no different than the FLAC files to my ears.

Sanders Amp

After many, many years of lusting after them, I finally wound up with my first (and definitely won't be my last) Sanders Sound Systems amp.

I got an ESL amp (mark I) that ultimately will be used to power the rear speaker panels. But for now is driving the Monolith panels.

after a week of use, I can say that it is a great amp, with less 'grain' to it than the Sunfire in the highs, and more definition down in the mid bass. Seems to be able to flow a lot more current to these directly driven ESL panels (remember, no passive crossover in the path for me).

Next up is a pair of Sanders Magtech monobolcks (Monoliths) and a Magtech stereo (center channel), at which point I think I will be at the max for amplification on this system

Highly recommended products with excellent service. Do check them out, but only get the in-home trial if you have the cash as you will *not* want to return them.

Here's a pic just after unboxing. Since it lives in a rack in the equipment room, this about the only time I get to see it. Once cabled up, it's rarely seen.

New PJ - JVC DLA-RS4810

JonFo said:

Just to note that the CRT PJ is now 15 years old, has over 10,500 hours on it, and still throws a nice enough image that movie nights are a real treat.
Built like a tank was an understatement, these behemoths are impressive.

However, a new JVC DLA-X55 4K projector is likely to displace it shortly (mid-2013 at the latest), as I really want to get the additional seating space.

Click to expand...

Well, the day finally arrived; I've replaced the old CRT with a new 4K digital projector, the JVC Pro line DLA-RS4810U (same as X55, but 2 more years warranty)

After more than 10,800 hours on the clock, the CRT is *still* going strong, but I really do want the space back, and this digital is indeed a good replacement. So out goes the 250 Lbs of metal and glass, and in comes the 42 Lbs JVC.

I got it yesterday, so I just threw it on top of the old PJ hush box to check out the panel alignment (three panel PJs can occasionally have mechanical miss-alignment), and luckily, mine is perfect. But being the compulsive perfectionist, I did perform sub-pixel corrections on the red as it was ever so slightly off.

In less than 45 minutes, I had everything aligned, configured, and checked with a calibration disc. Nice, compared to the hours and hours it took to get a relocated CRT setup, this was super-simple.

The image it throws is impressive; first, the sharpness. Oh my god! I can see detail in BluRay movies that was just not there on the CRT (it's 1080i), and this JVC with its 4K mode on is just downright amazing. No visible pixel structure on the screen either, which is great considering my screen has holes in it (remember: it's acoustically transparent), so no Moiré.

So Rich, you are right, I'm really enjoying the sharpness of this thing.

The second impressive thing for an old CRT user is brightness, as it can put out way more light, even on low lamp mode. And contrast is excellent, I even stepped down the lens aperture (-2) to get contrast to really pop as I have more brightness than ever.

And finally, black-level. This was the one area I feared a digital would do worse on than the CRT, but these latest JVC's get the job done. Black is black enough.
Scenes from ST into Darkness (an appropriate title to test black with ) displays an impressive mix of inky black with razor-sharp stars.

Hope to hang it from the ceiling mount this weekend. will post pics of the install later.

Congrats! That is one sweet projector.

slowGEEZR said:

Congrats! That is one sweet projector.

Click to expand...

Thanks Steve, it is indeed a nice one.

I'm glad I waited a few years before going to a digital, but still wound up with a bulb. But I got a good deal on the unit (pre-CEDIA sales lull is a great time to buy), even got a free replacement lamp as well.

Will replace with a 'true' 4K LED/Laser illuminated PJ in a couple of years. Doubt I'll get 10+ years out of this one like I did that last PJ

Ceiling mount done. Boy, that was fairly simple. Even though I had to swap out the PJ mount systems as the 12 year old mount was not as adjustable is the new Peerless PRG universal, man that's a sweet mount. Easy to adjust yaw and roll in minute increments. Using a bubble level, I got them so right, it worked perfectly the first time I fired up the PJ. Really, no further mechanical adjustments required. it was perfect. Highly recommended mount.

Mounted in this location, the alignment to the screen was so spot on that no keystone was required, and basically jsut had to zoom the lens so the image fit the screen, set focus and that was it. Man, digital's are sure nicer to setup that those CRT beasts. But having done those sure teaches one the value of mechanical setup, so I got that right just out of habit ;-)

Enjoying some concert BluRays now.

Next up: replace furniture to take advantage of new seating locations opened up by getting rid of the CRT.

Wow! Congratulations, Jonathan. I know you have been waiting a long time to make these upgrades. New pj. New amps. Your theater was already awesome, and it looks like you are making some huge improvements. I'm very happy for you.

Rich said:

Wow! Congratulations, Jonathan. I know you have been waiting a long time to make these upgrades. New pj. New amps. Your theater was already awesome, and it looks like you are making some huge improvements. I'm very happy for you.

Click to expand...

Thanks Rich, probably waited too long for the PJ, boy this one is nice. You should stop by next time you are in Atlanta and see/hear for yourself, as the acoustics treatments are a big step up from what you heard the last time. And of course, the video is now more contemporary

JonFo said:

Thanks Rich, probably waited too long for the PJ, boy this one is nice. You should stop by next time you are in Atlanta and see/hear for yourself, as the acoustics treatments are a big step up from what you heard the last time. And of course, the video is now more contemporary

Click to expand...

Thanks for the invite, Jon. I'll actually be in Atlanta next week to see Jack Johnson at the Fox, but it will be a quick trip and I won't have time to come visit you. But I will definitely try to plan a trip to come over and see you guys sometime soon.

More upgrades on their way, this time, smoothing the bass out a bit more by deploying a second sub in the HT.

Based on my experience with the quad sub setup in my second system, I decided that trying a second sub in the HT would allow for improved bass balance if I had a sub in the rear of the room, centered between the two Sequel rear speakers, and symmetrical to the Infinite Baffle sub at the front.

Now, once you have an IB sub, getting anything else to even come close is pretty much impossible, so I'm not trying. I just want something that is good enough to not add distortion, but still be able to generate enough output to balance the front sub in the critical regions where my room has standing waves in the bass.

Instead of spending thousands on a new JL or Velodyne sub, I happen to have to have some ideas and a penchant for DIY, so here's the plan:

Some of you might recall I used to run dual Velodyne ULD-18's in my system about 10 years ago. Well, once I built the IB, those got retired, one to my secondary system and another to a family member.

Now, the one from my secondary system blew out its 20+ year old driver a few years ago, and I've been keeping the old box for a special sub project. So the time has come to buy a new 18" driver and a modern amp to drive it. This box is pretty cool, as it is fairly large at 8 cubic feet, and has a false top where I place about 120 Lbs of sand (in cloth bags) to help add mass. Total loaded up box weighs in at over 250 lbs.

So here's the plan that is already in motion, as I've purchased these parts:

The new driver will be the just announcedDayton Ultimax 18 from Parts Express. This looks like a very good driver for the money. I almost went for the TC sounds LMS Ultra 5400, but it is too long for the box.

The amp will be the new DriveCore-based Crown XLS2500, delivering 1,200w to each of the Ultimax's 2 Ohm voice coils, that's 2,400 watts into the sub. Should be enough to deal with a sealed alignment

More when assembly begins.

The subwoofer driver:


The Amp:

cool project Jonathan, continue to keep us posted as you proceed !

Jon I am thinking of getting updated woofers for my Monolith III's. I think I have the Peerless units you recommended years ago. But also I see you eventually went with HIVI's. Are you still on the same Hivi's? Did you get the F series or the W series Hivi's? Where did you buy? How much were they?

Just to refresh your memory I have a subwoofer from 20-90 Hz and my monolith woofer run from 90 - 300 Hz so I also need something fast and excellent in this midbass range.

Hi Ted, I'm still running the Peerless units in the speakers. the HiVi's I purchased are still in their boxes.

The HiVi's are the M12's http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=84
Mass is a bit higher than the Peerless, so that was a bit of a concern, but I've not done impulse measurements on both to see.

Still enjoying the Peerless units, and I think they are a good value, check parts-express.

Thanks Jonathan appreciate your response. Are they the paper cones?