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Thread: ESL Panel Slippage

  1. #16
    MLO owner/operator TomDac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trophoto View Post
    Thanks. Was there a particular type or size of stripping you used? I cant imagine in matters much but was just curious. I think I will give it a try next time they slip down.

    Cheers
    don't recall what size it was..3M double sided foam tape, I believe it was called
     
    Tom D'Acquisto
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  2. #17
    Senior Member VanDaRo's Avatar
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    Well. It finally happened to me -- the dreaded panel slippage on my left speaker. So I made up a couple brackets and screwed them in as per this threads' instruction.

    Works good.

    I wonder how long until I see the right channel speaker do it to....

    ~VDR

  3. #18
    Member Webinattor's Avatar
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    Ok, it is my turn. Both panels are sitting on the floor.

  4. #19
    Member Webinattor's Avatar
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    Default Why my panel slipped. Fixed it.

    I replaced my panels last year and this morning found out why they slipped. I had not removed the white tape on the new panels that covers the adhesive. So removed the white paper tape and replaced the rails. Should be good now. This picture shows the white tape I had left on.


  5. #20
    Newbie Stan's Avatar
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    Yes, it's super old thread, but it helped me a few years ago, and in the process I came up with something that might be of some help to someone, sometimes, somewhere ...

    I have also slipped panel (little less than one inch), on Aerius i, and I tried to come up with a solution without drilling cabinet.

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    Long story short, a small piece of the L-shaped steel glued inside of the rail has done the trick. If well placed, was not visible from the outside, and does its job.
    The picture is very old and was created in the repair process. L shape steel is that little metal part down on the rail.

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    Of course, this can be done only on the models on which the rails move downwards.

  6. #21
    Junior Member
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    When I picked up my Sequel IIs a couple of years ago, I had purchased them due to having a dead panel on one side, and dead woofer on the other.

    What happened on the dead panel is that the wire had sheared off, knocking the soldered connection off of the bare metal. How did that happen? The stator panel had slid down behind the woofer grille. So, I am not as fond of using a bracket, as there is still the risk that the panel may slide behind the woofer grille. On the other speaker, both the stator and woofer grille shifted down equally, so, no issues there.

    I'll think of something. Just having seen a situation where a bracket wouldn't have worked, makes me think there is another solution.

    One thing I noticed, though--the stators seem as though they were originally attached with velcro. And it's the adhesive backing that failed, turning into a goo.
    -= Rudy =-


  7. #22
    Junior Member
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    It looks like these old SL3's had slipping panels at one point as the previous/original owner ran a couple of small screws through the woofer grills and into the baffles to keep everything in place. So I guess that's at least one thing I won't have to worry about in the future.

    Analog: Technics SL-1700 MK2/ Ortofon 2M Bronze | Carver TX-11a Digital: Oppo BDP-105D | Roku Ultra Preamp: Carver BillD C-1 w/Remote Volume Crossover/DSP: dbx Driverack Venu360 Amp: 2 x Carver M-500t Mk II Loudspeakers: Martin Logan SL3 Subwoofer: JL Audio e110 Power Conditioning: Blue Circle Audio PLC Puck x 2 & Yalo Bulala Surge | APC H15 Power/Signal/Speaker Cabling: Wireworld Oasis 7 | Aurora 7 | Ultraviolet 7

  8. #23
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    Hi there.

    Relatively new ML owner here experiencing the dreaded panel slip.

    Well, I came up with a solution from a gent's idea earlier in this post - I created a plastic/vinyl 'L' shaped 'hook'. I countersunk them (4 - one per rail) into the inside of the rails.

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    Name:  New bracket in place 003.jpg
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    This worked perfectly - and they've been in place for a month.

    NOW - I see that the stator is beginning to slip behind the woofer panel.

    One poster referred to having the same issue - but, no solution mentioned. Any ideas?

    My thoughts were to buy/create 4 'H' shaped plastic pieces and mount the bottom of the 'H' slot on top of the woofer panel and have the stator slip into the upper 'H' slot. Place one of these (two per speaker) behind the rail. They should stay just as hidden as the 'Hook' I created for the bottom of the Woofer panel.

    I think you really only need to align the Stator and the woofer panel. If they are always meeting, then you only have the bottom of the woofer panel to keep in place. Which should be covered by the first 'fix.

    Has anyone come up with any other idea for the stator slipping behind the woofer panel issue?

    Thanks, Pat

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