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ML Owner from 1988 to 2015 (Sequels, reQuests, Summits, Cinema)
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Well. It finally happened to me -- the dreaded panel slippage on my left speaker. So I made up a couple brackets and screwed them in as per this threads' instruction.
I wonder how long until I see the right channel speaker do it to....
My system is here: http://www.martinloganowners.com/for...ead.php?t=6228
Ok, it is my turn. Both panels are sitting on the floor.
I replaced my panels last year and this morning found out why they slipped. I had not removed the white tape on the new panels that covers the adhesive. So removed the white paper tape and replaced the rails. Should be good now. This picture shows the white tape I had left on.
Yes, it's super old thread, but it helped me a few years ago, and in the process I came up with something that might be of some help to someone, sometimes, somewhere ...
I have also slipped panel (little less than one inch), on Aerius i, and I tried to come up with a solution without drilling cabinet.
Long story short, a small piece of the L-shaped steel glued inside of the rail has done the trick. If well placed, was not visible from the outside, and does its job.
The picture is very old and was created in the repair process. L shape steel is that little metal part down on the rail.
Of course, this can be done only on the models on which the rails move downwards.
When I picked up my Sequel IIs a couple of years ago, I had purchased them due to having a dead panel on one side, and dead woofer on the other.
What happened on the dead panel is that the wire had sheared off, knocking the soldered connection off of the bare metal. How did that happen? The stator panel had slid down behind the woofer grille. So, I am not as fond of using a bracket, as there is still the risk that the panel may slide behind the woofer grille. On the other speaker, both the stator and woofer grille shifted down equally, so, no issues there.
I'll think of something. Just having seen a situation where a bracket wouldn't have worked, makes me think there is another solution.
One thing I noticed, though--the stators seem as though they were originally attached with velcro. And it's the adhesive backing that failed, turning into a goo.
-= Rudy =-
It looks like these old SL3's had slipping panels at one point as the previous/original owner ran a couple of small screws through the woofer grills and into the baffles to keep everything in place. So I guess that's at least one thing I won't have to worry about in the future.
Analog: Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB DC w/ Ortofon 2M Bronze Digital: AURALiC Aries LE w/ Linear Power Supply | Wyred 4 Sound Recovery USB Reclocker w/ iFi iPower | Oppo BDP-105D Preamp: Parasound Halo P5 | Lounge Audio LCR MK III Amp: Wyred 4 Sound ST-250 Loudspeakers: Martin Logan SL3 Power Conditioning: Blue Circle Audio PLC Puck x 2 & Yalo Bulala Surge | APC H15 Power/Signal/Speaker Cabling: Wireworld Oasis 7 | Aurora 7 | Ultraviolet 7
Relatively new ML owner here experiencing the dreaded panel slip.
Well, I came up with a solution from a gent's idea earlier in this post - I created a plastic/vinyl 'L' shaped 'hook'. I countersunk them (4 - one per rail) into the inside of the rails.
This worked perfectly - and they've been in place for a month.
NOW - I see that the stator is beginning to slip behind the woofer panel.
One poster referred to having the same issue - but, no solution mentioned. Any ideas?
My thoughts were to buy/create 4 'H' shaped plastic pieces and mount the bottom of the 'H' slot on top of the woofer panel and have the stator slip into the upper 'H' slot. Place one of these (two per speaker) behind the rail. They should stay just as hidden as the 'Hook' I created for the bottom of the Woofer panel.
I think you really only need to align the Stator and the woofer panel. If they are always meeting, then you only have the bottom of the woofer panel to keep in place. Which should be covered by the first 'fix.
Has anyone come up with any other idea for the stator slipping behind the woofer panel issue?