I would like a piece of Mylar from a CLS..

I need to heat shrink my CLS panels a little bit and would love a chunk of Mylar to test with.
I wish I would have kept a chunk from my last panel replacement...
TIA,
Vince

compaddict said:

I need to heat shrink my CLS panels a little bit and would love a chunk of Mylar to test with.
I wish I would have kept a chunk from my last panel replacement...
TIA,
Vince

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Go to your local Tap Plastics and pick up some mylar.

edit: the Tap plastic mylar is too thick. You can buy the right thickness off ebay or some other local plastic supplier.

I'd rather have real piece so I can really see what tolerance to heat it has.

Hi Vince,

I agree. Need to test with a material having similar physical properties.

How one can get the exact mylar information from ML is beyond me and most mortals.

Post No. 2 makes little sense. Again.

GG

Hola Vince. As far as I know, you might get the plastic but you need a special adhesive to bond the aluminum with the plastic at atomic level to make this plastic to be conductive. This is a NASA research, and I do know that the University of Kansas was the one who developed this special adhesive. Here is what I got from ML..." The diaphragm: The diaphragm is made from a .0005-inch thick polyethylene terathylate… a material whose consistency reminds most people of window tinting film. We lovingly refer to it as "PET" film. This PET material is treated to a plasma deposition process that took over three years to perfect. This process applies a uniform, durable, conductive coating to the film that enables a high-voltage charge to flow over its entire surface. Mass-less for all practical purposes, this diaphragm can reproduce clarity through the entire range of human hearing..." Perhaps if you talk to the guys at the service dept, you might get the quantity that you need...just thinking loud.

compaddict said:

I'd rather have real piece so I can really see what tolerance to heat it has.

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By "real", do you mean the actual Martin Logan official coated mylar, or just another mylar with the same thickness to use as practice?
The latter should work fine, and last I heard, it was 6um thick, but you should check anyway. There are some guys on the diyaudio forum that have actual bits of this film, and maybe you can bum some off of them.

In practice, you would end up heating the panel more and more until something happened, until you overdid it, and then it is panel rebuild time .

So, does anyone have a chunk they can spare?

Can I ask what you need to heat shrink them for?

I have a few loose spots.

http://www.eraudio.com.au/Components/components.html

These guys might come in useful at some stage. Mylar film, and the coating. They also know about MLs - surf around the site a bit and you'll see. If you need advice maybe give them a call? I bet they know about film thickness etc but I can't guarantee it.

This company could save some a lot of money with current panel replacement costs.

If you know someone that owns a cabinet shop or call around to a couple of them and ask them if they have a vacuum bag veneer press.

It is a heavy vinyl bag that seals up and is connected to a vacuum pump. It would be adjustable as to how much of a vacuum it would pull and would hold it for long periods. The one I have will pull a vacuum of up to 1,700 per sq. in. This would actually put pressure on the entire panel. I don't think shrink wrap will do much for the center of the panel with out a vacuum inside.

Hola. Just apply heat from a hair dryer to the spots, and you will see how the spots go away. Do it little by little. If you do it carefully, you won´t melt the film. You need a lot of heat to melt the film. But it is better to do it with caution. I had done it several times with excellent results! Mr. Jim Power did teach me how to do it, little by little. Apply heat for 5 to 10 seconds and take it away. Then again, until you have the spot totally removed.

Thank you for the information. I feel more confident now!
Do you notice a big difference after shrinking?
Vince

roberto said:

Hola. Just apply heat from a hair dryer to the spots, and you will see how the spots go away. Do it little by little. If you do it carefully, you won´t melt the film. You need a lot of heat to melt the film. But it is better to do it with caution. I had done it several times with excellent results! Mr. Jim Power did teach me how to do it, little by little. Apply heat for 5 to 10 seconds and take it away. Then again, until you have the spot totally removed.

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There is no sonic benefits, only cosmetic. Can you post a pic of the wrinkles?

I would have to move them into a room with more light to take pictures or I would.
Right now I'm really thinking about dumping them At 2800.00 for new panels.
That's a lot of jingle! My room would fit a pair of Pi 7 corner horns just about perfect.