room correction w/Behringer 2496 EQ

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thepogue

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I picked up the UltracurvePro 24/96 Digital Equalizer to help work some issues in a 12 x 12 room....the directions are really lame but it states that automatic EQ (room correction) should not be used below 100hz....just weird to me...

I tried hunting around bit...anyone know any good reads on "room correction" (using an eq I've got the room treatment but I'm trying to learn the eq part) or had any experience on these units or this topic?

I've read what little I can find here just hoping for a some more general info

Thanks!
 
I picked up the UltracurvePro 24/96 Digital Equalizer to help work some issues in a 12 x 12 room....the directions are really lame but it states that automatic EQ (room correction) should not be used below 100hz....just weird to me...

I tried hunting around bit...anyone know any good reads on "room correction" (using an eq I've got the room treatment but I'm trying to learn the eq part) or had any experience on these units or this topic?

I've read what little I can find here just hoping for a some more general info

Thanks!

Download "Room EQ Wizard" and have a look on the site on which it is hosted. Home Theatre Shack IIRC?

Great info, but you'll need a measurement mic to make proper measurements.

Good luck. I've got the DSP1124P (similar) and I set it up manually - measure using REQ Wizard and enter the filters manually.
 
I picked up the UltracurvePro 24/96 Digital Equalizer to help work some issues in a 12 x 12 room....the directions are really lame but it states that automatic EQ (room correction) should not be used below 100hz....just weird to me...

Where does it state that?

Most people agree that room correction by way of EQ should only be done below 100Hz. Perhaps it should have read over 100Hz?

Step 1) take measurements at your listening position. Then using that info you set the eq accordingly.

I use Room EQ Wizard software, and a Behringer ECM8000 mic.
 
Where does it state that? . . .
It's in the manual.
But you still can use the function by canceling whatever band or bands you choose. You need the behringer mike or have to be a math wiz to do the sensitivity setting conversion for other mikes (read dbx).
the best way to learn the 2496 is to play around with it endlessly. Auto EQ will not turn off automaticly but the changes it makes will settle with time if you are conservative with the range parameters.
Pink noise the room at less than 80 dB, as any louder tends to make the auto eq bounce around without settling down. turn off anything that makes noise, such as the furnace, AC, fridge, kids, etc. Start auto eq with narrow parameters for total span and span difference between consecutive bands. increase these levels to suit as you become familiar with the unit.
A good place to start on treating bass response is to measure the room, height, width, and depth. Use the formula for sound wave length (on the internet) to determine the common factor those measurements will contribute to nodes and cut those bands (or as close to them) heavily to begin with.
Want better sound (or at least different)? reverse the phasing of the woofer and panel by jumping the two separate sets of posts on the speaker oppositely (keep the panel normal, switch the woofer around) then do an auto eq and you should see a rise in the band that co-relates to the crossover point of the speaker. just cut that band on the eq. Neet-o.
If you get a hum or the display whacks out on the 2496 and you are using XLR to RCA converter cables, you will need to make up XLR connectors that don't allow the cable shielding to contact the XLR body or cable strain crimp. Let the RCA end take care of shield grounding. you will still need to jump the pins as in the manual though.
 
Where does it state that? . . .
It's in the manual.
But you still can use the function by canceling whatever band or bands you choose. You need the behringer mike or have to be a math wiz to do the sensitivity setting conversion for other mikes (read dbx).
the best way to learn the 2496 is to play around with it endlessly. Auto EQ will not turn off automaticly but the changes it makes will settle with time if you are conservative with the range parameters.
Pink noise the room at less than 80 dB, as any louder tends to make the auto eq bounce around without settling down. turn off anything that makes noise, such as the furnace, AC, fridge, kids, etc. Start auto eq with narrow parameters for total span and span difference between consecutive bands. increase these levels to suit as you become familiar with the unit.
A good place to start on treating bass response is to measure the room, height, width, and depth. Use the formula for sound wave length (on the internet) to determine the common factor those measurements will contribute to nodes and cut those bands (or as close to them) heavily to begin with.
Want better sound (or at least different)? reverse the phasing of the woofer and panel by jumping the two separate sets of posts on the speaker oppositely (keep the panel normal, switch the woofer around) then do an auto eq and you should see a rise in the band that co-relates to the crossover point of the speaker. just cut that band on the eq. Neet-o.
If you get a hum or the display whacks out on the 2496 and you are using XLR to RCA converter cables, you will need to make up XLR connectors that don't allow the cable shielding to contact the XLR body or cable strain crimp. Let the RCA end take care of shield grounding. you will still need to jump the pins as in the manual though.
 
slowly learning...

JRace- Guess Beakman answered your first question...and that's why I found it "weird" as stated in my first post. But what I did do it do two separate readings one above then one below and then manually married the two. The bass response was a bit low so a made some slight upward adjustments and shes sounding very nice now....off to get "Room EQ Wizard"!

amey01- Thanks for the heads up on the Wizard....I think in the end I'll end up punching mine in manually also.

Beakman- Funny thing is that I googled the 2496 and came up with your old thread where you were having issues....it just so happened that I'm a proud ML owner also...weird..lol. Thanks for your reply it helps alot!

pogue
 
One other thing I recalled after writing yesterday's response was the then coincidence of the 2496 auto eq settling down and behaving in a more expected fashion after I had reversed the polarity between panel and woofer.
From this I might extrapolate that some auto correction components / algorithms handle phase/ polarity differently.
 
Another thing that whacks-out the DEQ2496 is if you reverse polarity on the 2496 and also have the polarity reversed on one sub's amp panel switch and another sub normal. No no no! Keep your multiple subs polarity "normal" and do all the tricks on the EQ.
 
While I think you've figured this out, it bears repeating: Pro-audio 'auto-correction' is not up to snuff for home audio applications.

Turn off any 'auto' anything on those behringher units and use REW to measure your room (at multiple locations around your primary seating position) and use the averaged measurement results to determine appropriate EQ.
 
While I think you've figured this out, it bears repeating: Pro-audio 'auto-correction' is not up to snuff for home audio applications.

Turn off any 'auto' anything on those behringher units and use REW to measure your room (at multiple locations around your primary seating position) and use the averaged measurement results to determine appropriate EQ.

The "auto" feature on this unit is for gaining a flattened bench-line so once you get in the ball park it reverts (or better stated you revert it) back to manual mode so there is no "auto" mode running thus correction be made as music is play...same as in a studio mastering application.

But your input is again worth noting no question....
 
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