Commencing phase 3

Phase 3, as I mentioned in previous posts is adding some acoustic treatments to my room. Today I ordered a 3-pack of 24"x48" model 242 acoustic panels from GIK in "Silver Papier".

I think these will look sharp as heck right behind the Logan's panels (mounted upright) and on the wall behind the listening position (mounted long-ways).

Any tips on setup or what to expect are most welcome...

Yippee !! I'm excited !!

~VDR

VanDaRo,

Leave a gap behind the GIK panels and they will absorb from both sides... See what they sound like in the corners behind the speakers, they may or may not sound better there. Experiment.

Satch

VanDaRo said:

Phase 3, as I mentioned in previous posts is adding some acoustic treatments to my room. Today I ordered a 3-pack of 24"x48" model 242 acoustic panels from GIK in "Silver Papier".

I think these will look sharp as heck right behind the Logan's panels (mounted upright) and on the wall behind the listening position (mounted long-ways).

Any tips on setup or what to expect are most welcome...

Yippee !! I'm excited !!

~VDR

Click to expand...

VDR, Congrats!

Your planned positioning is spot on.

The front units should be mounted off the wall 2" to 4", and the tops of the traps should be even with the top of the speaker panel.
You want all the rear wave to hit the trap.

Now, just to check, does this GIK trap have a 'limp-mass' absorber' in it that might reflect sound?

Most 'bass traps' do. This is to increase their low-frequency performance. the problem is that material is usually a plastic sheet sandwiched in the middle of some fiberglass. that plastic is reflective at high-frequencies and will give you comb-filtering.
This is why the most recommended product to put behind the speaker is the Realtraps MiniTrap HF, which is designed to absorb high frequencies as well.


Even if the GIK is semi-reflective, you can mitigate this by mounting it at slight angle to the wall.
That is, for the left speaker, angle the trap so it tilted towards the left wall in such a way that HF signals hitting it will bounce away from the speaker.

But long-term, the absorber behind the speaker should be designed to deal with high-frequencies as well.
We cover the why’s pretty well in the long Room Treatments thread.

As always, JonFo is full of great advice. Read his thread on Room Treatments and you will learn a lot. Good luck with your project, VDR. Let us know your results. Don't forget to treat your first reflection points on the side walls if you can at some point.

Thanks for the advice, fellas. Now I will, once again, be scanning for the FedEx truck to roll down my street. After having read through the entire thread about room treatments, I'm all the more excited to see what improvements this modification will bring.

One of the reasons that I jumped to phase 3 before phase 2 was officially done is that I started to notice some HF energy -- ie: vocal sibilants, cymbal crashes. sound effects -- that sounded a bit "out of balance" with the rest of the sound. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that my room is fairly large (18'x21'x9') and live. These traps should be just what the doctor ordered

~VDR